New Jack

TagIamit

Can anyone recommend a new jack. The jack will not go up high enough for the wheel to be released. 2017 Tag. Please help, my husband is manually lifting the trailer, which I as a 120 lb woman cannot do.

JamesDow

I run into the same issue at times.

Last trip I had to dig a small hole to get the wheel off.

Have considered replacing 6 inch wheels with 5 inch. I doubt I will follow through with it.

My tow vehicle is a 2012 Rav4.

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ras

This is what I use.. 23-1/2 inches
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-ton-trailer-stabilizer-jack-96406.html

JamesDow

Taglamit:
I assume that the ball mount you are using has the rise or drop so that he problem occurs when the trailer is level and attached to your tow vehicle. (this would be the proper starting point)
What are you using for your tow vehicle?
If level, another thing you could adopt is to bring along some blocks such as 2x6 and roll up on them with the rear tires of your tow vehicle. Once on the block(s) you should get the space needed to remove or release the wheel.

Fourman110

Is the hitch ball at about 18”? Are you loading to unloading where the tow vehicle is tilted downward or the trailer tilted up at the front?

HikinMike

I'm a bit unclear as to what Jack you are referring too. Tire jack, leveling jack, tongue jack?

WayneW

Would this help? It has a pin that allows you to raise the jack flush with the frame and even remove it from the mount if need be. It doesn’t come with a wheel but I think you could replace the door with a wheel if desired.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Ultimate-Jack/322-RDJ-2K.html

WayneW

That would be replace the “foot”, not “door”. Fat thumbs and autocorrect sometimes don’t mix.

JamesDow

WayneW:

That looks like that item could fit the bill at potentially solving the problem. It hasn't been enough of an issue for me to jump at a change, but thanks at identifying a solution. The ability to totally remove the top half also would assist me with my Rav4 horizontally opening rear door.

HikinMike

Wow! That is too cool.

Donkeythekidd

I have the ultimate jack on mine. That's the first thing I did since I couldn't drop my tailgate. It works great but doesn't bolt right on. You will need a die grinder to move some holes over a bit. After I did that I also got some nice thick Chrome washers and then had to shape them a bit. I'll post some pics

Donkeythekidd

Here's some pictures. I got it at Tractor Supply Co $74.99

JamesDow

That is good information. I just looked at my stock jack and noted it would not take much effort at all to add some spacer under the jack mounting plate to get 1/2" plus in incresed height. With new bolts a easy inch or more could be gained. Maybe a galvanized pipe coupling would be a good spacer. Just a thought. May follow through on this idea.

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csonni

@Donkeythekidd said:
I have the ultimate jack on mine. That's the first thing I did since I couldn't drop my tailgate. It works great but doesn't bolt right on. You will need a die grinder to move some holes over a bit.

I'd like to upgrade to the Ultimate Jack but really don't want to be grinding away at any mounting holes yet. Would be nice to get a hole template before ordering. She say all the hole spacing is universal on most a-frames. What year is your TAG? Mine is a 2020 Boondock.

ras

If the Ultimate Jack is oriented as designed (flat tab toward the hitch and adjuster back toward the T@G), the holes will line up and it's a simple drop-in. Looking at the photos, it looks like the Boondock front rack may prevent that orientation. because the tab is shown pointing toward the right rear. I've got a 48 inch Lund toolbox on the front of our T@G 5W and didn't have a problem. Took 20 minutes max. To allow the sliding adjustment, the cylinder of the Ultimate is larger than a regular jack, so the washers won't work without grinding away part of the washer. Loosening that horizontal bolt above the flat tab and pulling back the black keeper allow you to completely remove the shaft to accommodate side-opening tailgates and Jeep tire mounts.

csonni

Yes, you’re right. Thus requiring modification to install on Boondock. I think I’ll stick with the stock jack for now.

csonni

I am now looking for a jack replacement for sure. Even if one raised up the Ultimate Jack to orient the adjuster to the back and clear the rack rail, then you have a potential generator being in the way of the adjuster. Are there any other jacks with a quick drop on the market that would drop right in to the 3 existing holes? I also think a side winding jack may be better than a top winder just to be sure that the back hatch of our Dodge Grand Caravan will clear it.

csonni

I'm looking at this one. I prefer a sidewinder for comfort and clearance.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/Pro-Series/PSRV20000103.html

It's listed at 2000 lb for utility and smaller trailers. I would think this is sufficient for the T@G.

csonni

Wow. It's nearly impossible to find a galvanized tongue jack. They're all painted black or gray.

csonni

Sure can't go wrong with this one. 5000 lb. It's a Top Winder, but the handle pivots over to get out of the way. https://www.amazon.ca/Curt-28250-Wind-Frame-Jack/dp/B004QEH1Q2/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=curt+trailer+jack&qid=1616198783&sr=8-24

csonni

Ended up going with the Bulldog 1550100317 Sidewind 3000 lb jack with a 7 inch retraction from the mount. I also got the drop leg extension if needed.

csonni

Would love to install the Jack E Up but doesn't look like it will fit without cutting the aluminum rail on the Boondock basket.