2023 T@G WFCO fuse/breaker box list

Does anyone have a fuse box list for the fuses/breakers in the WFCO?  I wish this was done at factory so you can identify what fuses / breakers are protecting which circuits....

Thank you

Dave

Comments

  • The_RiggerThe_Rigger Member Posts: 166
    edited May 11
    If your '23 is wired the same as my '21 with a WFCO 8700 Series (and I suspect it might be), the circuits are as follows:
    AC breakers:
    #1 - 30a - Main Shore Power Input Breaker
    #2 - 15a - AC outlets & AC/DC converter
    #3 - 20a - air conditioning/heater
    #4 - 20a - microwave, if so equipped
    DC fuses:
    #1 - 7.5a - lights/propane solenoid/stereo
    #2 - 15a - USB outlets
    #3 - 7.5a - vent & AC fans/galley water pump
    #4 - 20a - converter power
    #5 - 30a - battery reverse polarity protection

    There should be labels on the inside of the WFCO lid and/or the front panel of the WFCO just above the AC breakers.

    Dave in Michigan
    '21 T@G XL
    "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

  • JoeFridayJoeFriday Member Posts: 9
    How does the solar charge controller fit into this schematic?  Is there a fuse for it?
  • The_RiggerThe_Rigger Member Posts: 166
    edited May 12
    As far as I can tell, the solar controller doesn't interface with the WFCO at all; it connects directly to the battery, with a 30A fuse inline right at the battery.
    On my camper, there were three white ground wires (they're black now; I've rewired things using a "normal" DC color code) connected to the negative terminal of the battery and three fused red wires connected to the positive terminal, only one of which was routed through the disconnect switch. From my explorations, I've come to the understanding that the red B+ wire that's routed through the switch is the positive DC power supply to the WFCO, one of the red B+ wires that does not run through the switch goes directly to the auxiliary solar input socket that's mounted on the street side of the tongue box, and by process of elimination the other red B+ wire that doesn't run through the switch must go to the solar brainbox.
    This makes a modicum of sense (to me, anyway), as you wouldn't necessarily want the battery switch to disconnect your battery from your solar charging system.

    Dave in Michigan
    '21 T@G XL
    "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

  • JoeFridayJoeFriday Member Posts: 9
    Yes.  I found and reset the fuse as you suggested.  I also received a PUK code from VICTRON in my email about 30 minutes ago.  Using that code I was finally able to pair my phone with the charge controller.  All functions appear to be operating normally.  It is a wonderful relief.  Thanks for sharing your info and for your help.
  • The_RiggerThe_Rigger Member Posts: 166
    edited May 13
    Glad it worked out for you. For the record, if you ever need the PUK again it's on a label affixed to the back of the controller. You may have to unscrew the mounting screws holding the controller in place to see it, though.

    Dave in Michigan
    '21 T@G XL
    "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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