Converter Fuse Question

TAGalong

I have a 2025 T@G Boondock which is always  stored indoors and plugged into household current when not camping with it.   While plugged in and with the battery switch on, the light for the F6 slot (second from the bottom, labeled for Converter Power) on the converter will turn from green to amber after a day or so.  When this happens, I unplug from household current and turn off the battery switch.  I wait a while, then plug back in and flip the battery switch to on and the light is green again.   I have replaced the fuse with a new 20A fuse so I know that's not the problem.  Does anyone know what is going on?

JamesDow

Besides the light change, what is the status of things?

Per Google: 
A WFCO indicator light changing from green to amber typically means your unit has switched from shore power (AC input) to battery power mode, or it is indicating a change in operating/voltage status. What the Colors MeanGreen Light: Indicates normal AC/shore power is connected and active.Amber / Yellow Light: Indicates the unit has transitioned to invert/battery mode (running on battery power only) or is signaling low/charging status depending on the specific WFCO model series. Common Causes & TroubleshootingLoss of Shore Power: If your RV was plugged into an AC outlet or generator and you lost that connection, the inverter/converter automatically switches over, turning the light from green to amber. Check your shore power cord, breakers, and pedestal. Inverter Mode Active: On WFCO Inverters, a steady amber light confirms the unit is actively inverting DC battery power into 110V AC power because incoming shore power is absent. Flickering Amber: If the amber light is flickering instead of solid, it often warns that the battery charge level is dropping low.

TAGalong

Thanks for the suggestions.  I am plugged into a regular garage outlet and current is running through my Progressive EMS before the trailer.............EMS is showing no error codes or anything out of the ordinary.  

TAGalong

The problem persists.................I tried not running household current through my EMS, but after a couple of days, the amber light showed up again.  Any other suggestions regarding what might be the problem?  And a solution?

I'll be putting the trailer in winter storage in doors in another month or so.   I have the heated battery feature and want to make sure the lithium battery would be safe during our Michigan winters.  Or would the amber light issue not negatively affect the heated battery function?

JamesDow

 
@TAGalong, Battery heater is powered by the battery. It is independent of your T@G/converter.
I suggest you read up more on your battery and the best method to store it.

Per my research, store a heated lithium-iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) battery for a freezing Michigan winter, charge it to 50–70% capacity, disconnect all loads and charging sources, and keep it in a dry location where the ambient temperature stays above -4°F (-20°C)—though storing it above freezing (32°F/0°C) is ideal. 
Unless I am actively using or charging my lithium battery, my battery disconnect switch is turned off. 
Unlike lead acid batteries, lithium batteries do not significantly self discharge. (1-3% per month & slightly higher in a hot environment) 
If I was living in Michigan again, I would charge up to say 60-70%, turn off your battery disconnect and let things sit until spring. Check on it periodically, if you must but don't charge until camping opportunities come up. 
It is mainly charging lithium batteries when the temp is below the rated threshold that causes the biggest risk to battery damage.
Read up on you battery and keep things simple. 
Best of luck.  
________
 

TAGalong

To reiterate, I will store my T@G indoors in an unheated barn, with little chance for me to check on it, here in Michigan from October to April.   The road to the barn is not plowed in winter. So I have two options for the battery.  Option 1 is to plug it into shore power, with or without using my Progressive EMS, and to turn the battery heater switch on.  Option 2 would be to turn off the battery connect switch, unplug from shore power, and not to use the battery heater feature  Which of these is preferable?

JamesDow

 
Option 2 is what I would use. Lithium battery built-in heaters (generally) do not come on when the battery is not being charged anyways. It is the charging combined with Michigan cold which could harm your lithium battery. Even when cold, your lithium battery can (usually) discharge in the cold, but they cannot safely accept a charge until warmed.
Charge your battery to 70% SOC, turn everything off (Battery Disconnect Switch-OFF), winterize your water lines, unplug from shore power and leave your T@G in the barn until spring/summer. 
I would not doubt you would see >60-67% SOC six months later. 
It is the job of the battery BMS to keep the battery safe and I am confident it will, although if not being charged or a load applied, it likely is not being called upon.
 
Everything off-no shore power
6 months later
All will be fine. 
 

TAGalong

I appreciate your knowledge and patience!   By everything "off", does that include the battery BMS?  Would there be any advantage to turning the battery BMS "on" even though the battery disconnect switch is off and the trailer is not plugged into shore power?

JamesDow

I see no advantage to leaving the battery (BMS) on. I turn off my Renogy battery when not using for any extended period. 
Leaving a lithium Battery Management System (BMS) on during storage does consume power (small parasitic drain) on the battery cells, which is totally unnecessary.
Everything off if you can.

TAGalong

Thanks for your help!