Moving spare tire -- would this work?

We just bought a T@G XL and I'm not real happy with the placement of the spare tire under the frame.

I've seen a few mentions on both T@G and T@B forums where people moved the spare tire mount to the side of the trailer behind the wheel well, but I don't like that solution either.

I found this thread on the T@B forum, where the guy attached the spare to the tongue.

That seems simple and elegant to me. Does anybody know if this solution would work on a T@G, too? Or is there a space issue, with the T@G being smaller?

--

Sometimes the oak. Sometimes the willow.

Comments

  • SueBHunnySueBHunny Member Posts: 132

    My dealer had one where the spare was mounted along the side of the front frame. But I like the more balanced appearance of your way.

    Sue
    State College, PA
    2015 T@G Max
    2012 Subaru Outback

  • Dan_AnnDan_Ann Member Posts: 36

    I mounted mine the same way. I tried mounting it to the side of the frame, but the metal mesh that extends beyond the tub was in the way and I didn't want to modify that area. I have not experienced any noticeable vibration with this location. I don't carry a lot of extra weight in the front so the extra tongue weight is not an issue.

    2017 T@G

    Michigan

    2020 Ford Explorer SE

  • LuckyJLuckyJ Member Posts: 1,240
    edited April 2018

    I am a bit surprise that you say you saw a lot of T@G and T@Bs with spare tire mounted just behind the rear fender, cause to my knowlodge, we are just a few like that, most go with what you showed or the side frame mount on the Aframe.

    If you like it, go for it. Just watch you tongue weight and you will be good. But if you have issued removing your jack wheel and need to go with the removable jack system, then it will not work as shown.

  • OldFatDogOldFatDog Member Posts: 14

    I actually said "I've seen a few mentions," but regardless, I don't want to drill through the exterior to mount the tire on the side. Our dealer said that would void the warranty -- and even if not, we plan to add a vinyl-wrap design that covers the entire side (both sides) and need to keep that area free for the graphics.

    I can't see any issues with removing the jack wheel -- assuming you mean simply pulling out the cotter pin and dropping the wheel? The wheel isn't near the spare tire in this setup. Or did you mean something else?

    --

    Sometimes the oak. Sometimes the willow.

  • LuckyJLuckyJ Member Posts: 1,240

    @OldFatDog about the side wall location, it is fine, you really do what you want. In my case, the frame issue was already adress when I cut the 2 in ball receptacle and inserted a 2" receiver tube from the front all the way to the back, so I could reinforced the frame an gain a rear tow point.

    On this case, you really do whhat you want.

    About the jack wheel, I just wanted to mention that some people here seems to have issue when trying to remove it, because even with the jack al the way up when hotch to the TV, seems that space is insuficient to remove the wheel, even with cross pin removed. If this is fine with you, go for it, no bad solution here, just one that fits your need.

    We are here to exchange idea, and share what works for us and what did not and for what reason.

    In my case, like you, under was a no go, and I have the outback/boundock aluminium rack up front and did not wanted to add weight in that location. So I went with rear side mount using three pre drill holes and drilling one more. But this is what worked for me.

    Wishing you a nice day. :)

  • LuckyJLuckyJ Member Posts: 1,240

    @OldFatDog said:
    I actually said "I've seen a few mentions," but regardless, I don't want to drill through the exterior to mount the tire on the side. Our dealer said that would void the warranty -- and even if not, we plan to add a vinyl-wrap design that covers the entire side (both sides) and need to keep that area free for the graphics.

    I can't see any issues with removing the jack wheel -- assuming you mean simply pulling out the cotter pin and dropping the wheel? The wheel isn't near the spare tire in this setup. Or did you mean something else?

    I have just seen a post, not sure if it is here, on the T@B forum or on the facebook pages about T@g, T@B or other, but anyway. Someone purchase the outback/boondock aluminium rack form Nucamp, to put on thong frame, and guess what, company instruction ask to drill 4 holes in the frame to install.

    I will leave the conclusion to you guys about warranty voidance to drill one or 2 holes in a frame.

  • OldFatDogOldFatDog Member Posts: 14

    @LuckyJ said:
    I will leave the conclusion to you guys about warranty voidance to drill one or 2 holes in a frame.

    Warranty aside, it's really more about aesthetics for us. We plan to cover both sides in full vinyl graphics at some point, and I'd like to keep that area clear. I was playing around with some ideas the other day. I got completely carried away, but the possibilities are endless! :smiley:

    --

    Sometimes the oak. Sometimes the willow.

  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 139
    edited April 2018

    I vote for the first one as I love to watch the stars at night, but the hazy forest is a close second!

  • BBsGarageBBsGarage Member Posts: 396

    Maybe Picasso's Starry night?

    Bill

    2017 T@G Max XL, New Jersey.
    You can drive along 10,000 miles, and still stay where you are.

  • LuckyJLuckyJ Member Posts: 1,240

    @Verna said:
    I vote for the first one as I love to watch the stars at night, but the hazy forest is a close second!

    I am with Verna on both her choice. But not sure I would go for total wrapping. But the look of all are very interesting and funny. Just not sure I would like that on full time basses.

    As for tore placement, I agree. I think we almost all agree that the oem location is not that great, for me, it was a ground clearance issue, nothing else, and I have the higher outback model. But I think it is nice to know that other options are available and no mater were the location is, a couple holes in the frame should not be that much of a stopper. If the work is well done and the location is not sensible..

    Again, those wrap are something.

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