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Can my Subaru Outback (4cyl) tow a TAG?
PatriciaValentine
Member Posts: 4
Hi, I'm downsizing. I just purchased a new Subaru Outback with a tow capacity of 2700lbs, which I view as optimistic. I'm looking to get a TAG XL and want to know if other Subaru owners have towed this weight? about 1150 dry. I do have all the gear which adds more weight but as a solo traveler I am hoping my weight of stuff will not threaten the CVT if I travel cross country. I average 300 - 350 miles or so and like many layovers,,, AH the retired life!
Comments
We do not all agree on what is suitable as fudge factor on towing capacity of a TV, but personally, I see no problems if you stick to the total weight you are talking about. As for the CVT, since it is made for the towing capacity of your TV, I do not see any issues either. But for this, I would try to google for cvt reliability for your suby.
Have fun.
The Outback will tow it just fine. You will be going 60-65 max if you have the 2.5L. Just watch the RPMs especially on inclines.
Jusy read the manual, my 2010 states anything over 1000lbs must have the electric brake controller in the car and the brakes on the trailer.
And FYI I've seen Outback owners towing T@Bs which get a bit closer to the weight after all the cargo in the trailer and vehicle and the people sitting in the car. The T@Bs are around 600+ heavier than a T@G dry weight starting out.
Also with the XL, you will have some issues seeing people close behind your trailer. I was going to look into strapped on mirror extenders.
2019 T@G XL Boondock Edge "Prometheus"
2010 Subaru Outback 2.5L "Ecto 10"
@Martog good catch on the mirrors.
I do not know if it is mandatory for wider than tv body in the US, nore in all canadian provinces, but in my mind, it should be.
You should be able to see all the lenght of the sides of a trailer with the inner portion of your Tv mirror.
I own(ed) both Outbacks (T@G and Suby). If I were to be buying a new T@G given I own the Suby, I’d be get the standard XL with a brake and roof rack upgrade as I think lower profile would be easier to tow (and I don’t take the camper into rough terrain). My 2.5i had no problems towing and I could usually accelerate relatively easily.
On the down side, it struggled in the hills and at best my mileage was 15.8mpg towing (was 28 without trailer). I always wondered how much wear and tear was happening to my engine. If you’ve got the 3.6 engine, I’d expect these concerns would diminish.
My 2017 Subaru Outback saved our lives, but is no longer with us. I pick up an Ascent next week.
“I'm T@G-ing Out"
Jay
The 3.6 will help going on the hills with less RPM, but since 2015 models they also use a CVT. The newer models have improved CVT with cooling.
Ill be honest with the price of the ascent I'd be torn between it and a truck.
2019 T@G XL Boondock Edge "Prometheus"
2010 Subaru Outback 2.5L "Ecto 10"
Thank you, everyone, for adding your thoughts. I was towing a Scamplike Trillium (2000 lbs) with my last TV rated for 3500. And I still have the add on mirrors. I’m used to the visibility block. Honestly I thought the teardrop would be easier visibility so I’m glad to rethink that. I tow at about 55-60 to match my grey hair. I have the 2.4L Subie. I’ll need to have the flat 4 plug changed out. Any thoughts on that? Again thanks for your input. I’m going to look at two TAGs today
With the XL you'll have limited visibility behind you with the Outback, I'm fairly sure they haven't really made them wider since my 2010, I could be wrong! The non-XL would probably be a decent upgrade in visibility, but I wouldn't trade that for the extra room, just get some extended mirrors that strap on, none-specifically are for the Outback, will have to go for a universal.
Towing at that speed you'll be just fine then with the 2.4L. You'll need the 7pin connector, especially since you need the electric brakes on the trailer and the electric brake controller. You can use an RF controller, but you'll still want the 7pin. The 7pin also allows to charge the battery so you can keep the Norcold cooler running while towing.
Not sure how the new Outbacks are, but my 4pin was in the cargo area and the dealer had to re-wire a bit to get the 7pin hooked up. I know the Ascent comes pre-wired for a controller supposedly, but not sure about the Outbacks.
2019 T@G XL Boondock Edge "Prometheus"
2010 Subaru Outback 2.5L "Ecto 10"
Just fyi standard Suby Outback side mirrors were plenty. I bought some extenders and only used them one trip on my 2017.
“I'm T@G-ing Out"
Jay
The mirrors might be different on the newer models. I didn't like the view with mine which is why I am considering extended ones.
2019 T@G XL Boondock Edge "Prometheus"
2010 Subaru Outback 2.5L "Ecto 10"
I towed mine once w/o mirror extenders, the trip home from the dealer. Couldn't see anything behind me but the front of the trailer. I wouldn't think of taking it anywhere without extenders.
Also, I disagree with the use of the word "need" when discussing electric trailer brakes. Personally, I haven't needed trailer brakes and I would wager most of the T@Gs on the road don't have them.
Ed & Karen
2017 T@G Max XL
2018 Subaru Outback 3.6R
No but if you don't follow your vehicles towing recommendations and get in an accident and it is found out you didn't follow them it may not get covered under insurance depending on what happened. My 2010 manual states anything over 1000lbs has to have electronic brakes. Does it really need them? No, but I'd prefer to follow the guidelines The 2019 3.6 still has these guidelines.
2019 T@G XL Boondock Edge "Prometheus"
2010 Subaru Outback 2.5L "Ecto 10"
I forgot to mention...... I also have been setting up my side mirrors per the SAE recommendations for eliminating blind spots (with or without the trailer). It sets them up wide so that when traffic moves out of the rear view mirror (blocked when towing) I can see a vehicle in the side mirror eliminating the blind spot.
Set up this way, when I see a vehicle in my side mirror, I know I can't move into that lane. I don't get to admire my car in it as it pulls the view away from my car. Set up with the standard side mirrors, I really haven't had any need for side mirror extenders, though perhaps with a very small width of vehicle it would make more sense.
https://www.caranddriver.com/features/how-to-adjust-your-mirrors-to-avoid-blind-spots
“I'm T@G-ing Out"
Jay
On thing about setting mirror is that w/o used of the central mirror, your side mirror must allow you to see the full lenght of the side of your trailer from the inside portion of your mirror, just so you know if a vehicule is following you and if an emergency vehicule is trying to pass you. If you only see it ounce it is passing you, then it is way to late.
Just look at trucks with straight body box or semi, they have multiple mirror in order to maximised the rear views and angles. But you do see the driver just by looking along the trailer.
That is the paramedic in me writing this but also the traveler.
Hmmm going to have to plitely disagree on this one. Set up like SAE (a pretty smart group in the auto industry) recommends, you’ve got full visibility down the lane next to you for quite some distance. There’s only a small (much smaller than car sized) blind spot off the back end of the trailer. A semi trailer is much longer than our little trailers and that blind spot is bigger than a vehicle. Truck drivers also use the mirrors for backing up (those guys are often amazing backing up).
Too many people set up mirrors to see part of their car (give them a spatial sense relative to their car but creating a significant blind spot). With SAE, if there’s a vehicle in the side mirror, don’t enter the lane. Adding a mirror extension to enable me to see the side of my car with my main side mirrors doesn’t work for me. Adding the extended mirror so I could see even further out than I do per SAE recommendations also doesn’t work for me.
I recommend trying out the SAE recommendation for everyday driving and if it works for you, keep it that way for the trailer. But..... everybody should do what they’re comfortable with. If extra mirrors give someone a sense of security, by all means use them.
“I'm T@G-ing Out"
Jay
I have mod my post, and part of the discussion was taken in MP.
I leave this here, witch is the basic methode for mirror adjustements while towing a trailer.
http://www.allaboutcampers.com/trailer-mirror-adjustment/
And also want to add about the fact that yes, the SAE principle about adujsting mirrors state that the side mirror should be adujsted to make a small overlap with the central mirror to allow the widest angle of view toward the back (and Iafter reading this, I came to realized that I was adujsting my standard vehicule mirrors like that, way before I've ever heard of the SAE principle, but anyway, this is as nothing to do here). But it is my belief that since the mdiile mirror is not available anymore, this principle can no more be applied.
The only way to see behind and safely tow a trailer is to used the principle showed in the video. Now, do what ever you all want with that information, my intention are only to share the info.
Now, I am sorry if I offended Fourman110, that was not my intention, so I appologize.
And also, I want to appologize if my writing is not perfect, but my main language is french (yep, I am french canadian), and google translate would still do way worst than what I can do.
Again, be safe and have fun out there.
Luc
I spent last summer, my first season towing my 2018 T@G XL Boondock (or anything for that matter lol), with my 2016 Subaru Outback (4cyl) CVT engine after having the 7pin connector and electric brake controller installed.
I was pleasantly surprised with the average 20 mpg around "flat" New England as well as the towing capacity and strength on some hills in Maine and PA. Of course, I kept my speeds under 60mph when possible and stopped frequently on super hot days to let the engine cool just to be proactive.
I travel solo and try to pack light (the dog's luggage weighs more than mine
) and didn't have any trouble with tongue or towing weight.
Seeing other vehicles was not an issue in the Outback with my T@G XL for me, but I did have trouble judging the distance of the car behind me in the next lane over when switching lanes myself.... but I'm guessing that comes with experience (?). Therefore, I try to stay in the middle lane to avoid swerving left as somebody inevitably bolts onto the highway from the on ramps to the right.
Slow and steady and always check your mirrors and blind spots three times and you'll be ok. Happy camping!
I tow my 2018 with a 2012 Rav4 4x4 (4 cly). It is rated to tow 1,500 lbs. I have run into no problems to date. MPG 18-20, which is not mu h of an overall drop. In the mountains, the transmission will drop down and ocassionally hit 5,000 rpm. I do not have a factory tow package and have yet to i stall a trany cooler. I may consider that next year.
Tow capacity concerns - - Keep in mind that tow capacity is just one part of the calculations. Another big one is payload capacity of the tow vehicle. I normally place most items in the Tow Vehicle. Minimal with little weight in trailer. With my Toyota Rav4 I have a payload rating of 1,071 lbs. - - - From that point you need to start subtracting things: >>> Roof Rack=10lbs, Trailer hitch (Curt 13149)=35lbs, Ball mount & locking pin=11lbs, Trailer tongue=150lbs, Water(2.5gal)=20lbs, Cooler/Food/Drink=42lbs, Renogy Solar Suitcase=26lbs, Gear, clothing, chairs, gear, driver, passenger, electronics, cameras, tools, generator, tarps, shelter . . . All of these things start to add up and start to reach the payload capacity.
I have the 2018 t@g outback. I love this camper. I tow mine with my 2014 Subaru Outback 2.5. The camper has electric brakes and I had a brake controller installed in my Subi to accommodate. I have no problems towing at all. I drive the interstate speed limits but won't go over 75mph and tows great. I use my cruise control, like someone else did mention though I do watch the rpms on inclines....once I get to 4k I usually drop a couple mph and she winds down. To save my brakes on declines I sometimes use the paddles on my wheel to downshift when I'm in the mountains. Again, watch the rpms and all is well. I've done 3 cross country trips in the last year and a half and have had no issues, with camper nor my Subi. I do carry extra oil with me, with the mountains and towing she tends to burn a little more than usual.