Disclaimer - amateur woodworker and installer at work.
My '21 XL Boondock did not come with a sliding tray and I wanted one to go with the new Alpicool C30 cooler I had purchased.
I started by purchasing a set of heavy duty slide rails from Amazon:
and then I purchased a 3/4" board from Lowes with I cut to fit the space at 17.5" wide and 25" long. I spray and stained the board with the closest color I could find. I also added a small lip to the board (which turned out to be a saver when it comes to opening the tray).
Once I got going I quickly realized that the installation was going to be tight as I measured the space - there is a drop towards that back of the storage space which limits a cooler height. I had 2 1/2" of clearance to work with.
When I went to install the setup I ran into a couple of issues - there is a 1 1/2" of incline from the back of the space to the back of the trailer, narrowing my 2 1/2" of usable space. There is also a raised bracket for locking the back door that you have to clear. With a 3/4" board, I knew it was going to be tight. Also, you will need to bring the board about 7" out from the end of the rails to have enough clearance to open the cooler when fully deployed.
When I went to install the setup I also found I needed to do it in stages - the left rail was secured using two existing holes and one new one, then I had to attach the right rail to the board before inserting the whole unit to the space. I then attached the left rail slide to the board, leveled the board and then attached the right rail to the unit.
Turns out I was about 2/8th of an inch off when I tried to slide the cooler fully into the enclosure. I was able to fix this by removing the back rubber feet of the cooler and now I can use the space as intended.
I'll probably get a 1/2" board and redo the base with it so I can put the rubber feet back on the backside of the cooler so I dont have that nagging feeling its not fully complete.
Total time was a few hours for me, so if I can do it I have confidence that you can as well.
Just got my 2019 trailer. Working on it the last 2 months. Knew I was going to remove the AC and Micro as we mostly dry camp and don’t need AC in the Sierras. Found that there’s quite a bit of unused space behind all the cabinet walls. I removed the back walls of the cabinets and used the scrap to fill in the shelf. Stained areas as needed. Added about 6 inches to the rear of the left and right shelves and made them usable for clothes storage.
Filled in the side vent holes and the massive vent in the floor so no moisture behind the cabinetry going forward.
Routed and fastened wiring so the AC area could be paneled in all the way to the back wall. Ordered door kit from NuCamp. May change its orientation like a post I found here so it folds out like a table.
Cut out the huge open space below the stereo for storage. Used the trim from around the AC unit to finish it off. Thought about shelves or a door but decided the open spot would be easier to use. Hole in back wall was from cord to electric frig. Drilled new hole down by floor for wire. Glued that plug in the old hole.
Opened the service panel on each end of the headboard. Installed $2 cabinet magnets to allow it to be removed at will with button handle. Figured it would be a good place for wallet, spare keys and other hidden treasures. Was going to open the front side for access but decided I didn’t have tools to cut nice openings in such a tight high vis area.
Added a 3 inch lift kit. Cut off the extra fenders length and have yet to weld on side steps so I can step on something to get to roof. Will cover those in diamond plate to match fenders.
Removed microwave and it’s false floor. Ordered door kit from NuCamp. Added a slide out drawer for kitchen ware. The more storage the better.
Added a Yakima rail rack (comes on the Boondock edition) and installed a Rhino Rack full exterior awning. Currently modifying a roof rack with a hinge door so the Fantastic Fan ceiling vent can be opened. (When rack is empty of course)
Installed a 2 6 volt battery system. Removed larger gas bottle as we won’t do more that water on the rear kitchen stove. Needed the room for the dual battery box. Folded down rear lip of storage box and put a piece of mesh aluminum to the back for storage. More storage and drainage! Moved battery switch and propane valve so everything fit. Used silicone to seal the underside of he riveted top of the box. Put a bead on the open edge so water doesn’t drip in the box. Installed stainless latch lock. Expensive batteries!! Also installed a $20 voltage monitor. May install a nicer unit inside after I see how it performs in the field.
Still on the todo list;
100 watt portable solar system
Rear trailer hitch for bike carrier (flush with rear frame)
Portable propane shower system
Thinking about dropping some 18x36 boxes in the bottom of the floor to deepen the under floor storage.
Exterior side room (opposite side of Rhino Rack) so my wife has a changing room or place for portable toilet For use at night.
Love seeing everyone’s mods and getting ideas. Desperate for spring time so we can get this thing out camping!!!!
first of all tried to resize...nope didn't work...this is not my invention but loved the idea so much I went out and bought the materials for this 1 1/2 years ago...then became an overthinker...didn't want to see a black velcro strip on the inside of the trailer...thanks to a fellow [email protected] and friend she helped me with the last part...so happy to have finally got them made...think they will become another awesome mod for us! magic mesh, industrial velcro, some black binding and a little bit of sewing...
Still have to stain it but here is my slide out shelf for under the AC unit
2x1 for side supports that are screwed from below into the AC cabinet, 2x1/2” for the left, right, and front sides of the shelves, and 1/2” plywood for the top of the shelf. Used 2 1/2” wood screws to attach the side supports to the cabinetry and 1/2” wood screws to mount the slides