Battery Abuse ?

GigHarborTom

We have a 2017 Wide Body. Recently tried out local Penrose State Park. No hookups. Thought we would see what we could get away with. Ran the cooler overnight around 38 degrees. Kept the setting and installed a gallon of frozen water before takeoff. We spent four nights out before hooking up and coming home. Charged on the road during the hour drive and before back to offload and to storage. The only thing we ran was my CPAP, charged phones, and the frig. I really have no way of checking the status of the battery since downsizing and giving so much tools etc. away.
We have a factory Solar that we have not used. Did not need because we are usually on shore power. I met a gentleman with a new big trailer and a suitcase Solar. He had it to ensure he could operate his wife's CPAP. The state parks in this part of the country are mostly wooded and I doubt he got much use or needed his setup. I am reluctant to fill my front box with another battery. Wonder how good or how much I can get out of the provided stock solar panel ,and what was an essentially new battery.

WayneW

A few things. First, I applaud your willingness to see how far the battery got you. I kinda want to do that but just haven’t. I’m not sure I’d do that while needing a CPAP!

Second, I recently picked up a 100 watt Renogy solar suitcase and it’s been a “game changer.” I’ve still got the stock 2 yr old 75 a-hr battery and we spent 7 stationary days in Wyoming at 80 deg or so. I ran the fridge (36 deg), water pump, fan and lights, and the solar panel worked wonderfully! Fully charged every day and no problems. And I was surprised at the output even while in the shade or on a cloudy day. Once I get a new 100 a-hr battery I think I’m good to go just about anytime. I’d get that solar option hooked up. You’ll like it.

Last, hard to tell if you are guilty of battery abuse without a meter, but I bet you came pretty close! Get that solar hooked up and you’ll be good to go. I think one battery will meet your needs.

beaky

we just got back from Moab and in that heat the fridge went to L1 and shut down, just not enough juice to keep it cold and we had 100w of zamp getting plenty of sun. We are looking at a Goal Zero 1400 lithium as its the future of powering camping gear

JamesDow

Beaky,
I'm surprised your fridge could not keep up.
How old is your battery.
I desert camp in the summer and have never ran into a shut down issue with fridge.
If your trailer battery is over two years, I would start with that replacement.
The 1400 is fine, but you are duplicating a lot of electronics you already have.
It can be used for other things, so your call as to cost-effectiveness.

GigHarborTom

WayneW THANKS I always carry a battery package, that includes jumpers, puny compressor etc.
Have used off grid for up to three nights for the CPAP. Took along on this last trip, did not need. Usually have had hookups. But exploring state parks that may not be an option. The jumper has bailed out a couple tow vehicles of others over the years. I'll read up on the provided solar thing. I did order a battery monitoring meter yesterday after we got home.

daveandcorlene

Hi WayneW, I am glad that you have had success with just one 75 amp-hour battery with solar. I have thought about doing 2 batteries in series. Now, I will probably just stick to my one 75 a-hr battery with 100 watt solar. Someday, I would also like to upgrade to a 100 a-hr battery. Thank you!

Michigan_Mike

The nice thing about rooftop solar is that you are getting a dual charge while driving. I had a 320 T@B and now a 400 with the 195W rooftop panel. I have boondocked off grid for two week stints without any issues and as long as you have sunlight, no problems. We also use the Luci lights too and are aware of what we need and use and do conserve energy. With practice and over time you will get a handle on all of it. Lithium is expensive and dual batteries do help.

Dr_Doom

I have a 2020 boondock with the OEM 75ah battery and factory solar. We also have a Victron battery monitor to keep an eye on things. Since we have a Yeti (no Norcold), we hardly use any battery at all (lights, fan, tv), and the solar usually tops us off during the day so we typically have close to 80-90% battery in the morning (we use the fan all night for circulation) depending on how much sun we got to charge during the previous day.

We have found we can last quite a few days power wise with no issues. Our issue is ice packs lasting in the Yeti. So far we have gone 4 days in the summer on the same packs and still have cold temps.

Im not sure how much of a power drain the Norcold is, but the rest of the trailer doesnt use much.

GigHarborTom

You all have convinced me. As soon as I get the monitoring meter from Amazon, check the size of the solar panel under the bunk etc., I'll fumble around in my usual fashion and probably upgrade. I might purchase another jump box for additional CPAP insurance if I do not upgrade. Cheap and rechargeable on any 110 available. That should last 5-6 days if I run out of on board juice, due to my abuse of the system. Also use the jump box/CPAP combination with my primitive Mountain man reenactment camp. Then again I might be able to hide the Solar panel for the that application.

GigHarborTom

Went out to the storage yard this afternoon. Our panel is a 40W with a price tag of $499. Think I've seen several 100W a lot less expensive.

Dr_Doom

The Renogy kits seem to be the most popular (best bang for your buck).

Renogy 100w kit $150 on Amazon

Renogy solar suitcase $250 on amazon

You can also buy directly from Renogy. They have free shipping, and they usually have some sort of discount code, so they are typically a bit cheaper than amazon. (code "welcomeback12" is active for 12% off right now)

Renogy Solar Suitcases

GigHarborTom

Dr Doom-- Thanks, I have been drooling over that for a few days. Seems like a good deal.

JamesDow

I initially bought a solar suitcase from Amazon. Had a small hole in the soft carry case. Renogy would not back it and instructed me to go through Amazon. Checked price at Renogy and was slightly cheaper. Returned bad to Amazon and bought directly from Renogy.
Look for Labor Day sale from Renogy.
My advice - buy direct. Free shippong and fast.

GigHarborTom

JamesDow I'll wait.. Thanks Our trailer came used with a 40W... Wifely wants me to try the one we have. We have a deep cell Marine battery. All we have had on without a Solar is the cellphone recharge and frig. We have clip on rechargable battery personal fans, shooting down and about from the little compartments above the beds. We seldom used the Fantastic fan or AC on our other trailers. Do you have any idea the difference in draw between the Fantasitic and Maxxi fan.

Sharon_is_SAM

@GigHarborTom - your 40 watt panel will be like a trickle charger at 2 amps/hr at best. Here is a chart that compares the amps for the Fantastic Fan vs the MaxxAir fan. This is an old chart from 2015

This is info from a TaB owner who did her own testing with the Fantastic fan.

GigHarborTom

Do you think a 100 Watt will suffice?

Fourman110

I used a polychrystaline 100w setup with two 6v golf cart batteries (remember you need to be able to store the energy created) and it mostly kept up with my Norcold/fan/lights/phone charging/.5 hr a night TV use but I found myself not running the fan or tv as much as we wanted (ie. Saw the amps going down and minimized use). If I remember my calculations correctly I needed something like 120W to really keep up. Ended up making my own 200w monochrystaline solar suitcase and it’s been working wonderfully.

Sharon_is_SAM

@GigHarborTom - you can do a lot with a 100 watt panel (with long extensions) under good, sunny conditions - about 5 - 6 amps/hr charge. I know there are several TaB owners who regularly get by with this set up. It appears that your Norcold NRF is your main draw at about 4 amps when cycling - at half duty that will take (4 x 12 hrs) 48 amps in 24 hrs. Plus a few amps for your cell phone. So, you need maybe 50 amps/day or less. Upgrading to a minimum of 100 amp Group 27 battery will give you one day of lousy sun before you must recharge. You really need to monitor your battery though. Even a simple plug in 12 v meter is helpful. Since solar has come down so much in price, it may be better to get a larger suitcase and upgrade the battery - especially if you plan to run the overhead fan. Maybe just take a cooler and use the frig for storage😊

GigHarborTom

Thanks everyone....Getting long in the tooth here and a little slower on the takeup. Thankfully I now have a better understanding. I'm thinking I will be on the lookout for that holiday sale and go for maybe 200 or so suitcase. We'll see how the battery is and maybe upgrade there also. We have not used the fantastic fan hardly at all on our last two trailers. Just did not like the noise. So far we have not used the TV or sound system. That electric cooler is something Dena has fallen in love with. We do also carry an Ice chest type cooler. Really did not need it, but handy for drinks and extra lettuce.

GigHarborTom

I finally got out to the trailer storage site today. After running the Frig and some phone recharge, and the water pump once a day for dish washing, over 4 days, driving home one hour and sitting for a week, the Battery is reading 12V on my Flute meter. We have a NAPA 8302 Premium Marine RV Deep cycle unit. Specs say 130 reserve capacity. Brought it home and put on the charger. Just bought a Camp Zero 40 qt cooler to replace our 1969 Coleman. Going to pre cool everything, pack ice bags, and a jug in the frig, and see what we can get away with while monitoring and off grid if need be. We will not use the water pump in the future if off grid.

Sharon_is_SAM

@GigHarborTom - this chart will help you keep track of your battery.

daveandcorlene

Thank you Sharon!

GigHarborTom

Sharon Thank you. I have that chart written down for a few days. You and others are great for sharing. I do have a plugin monitor now plus my trusty Fluke meter.

Sharon_is_SAM

@GigHarborTom - keep in mind that these numbers apply to a rested battery. The voltage will be lower when under load by lights, frig, fan, pump.

WilliamA

I pretty much keep my thoughts (Soooo many voices....And some GOOD ideas!) to myself on batteries and things. To each his own. But something to consider for us Norcold users:

Temperature equals voltage. Lower temp=more volts. I generally keep my Norcold set at about 42 degrees. That's still colder than any icebox and takes half the power that setting it at 35 degrees does. I'm not trying to run a household larder in my trailer. I tend to restock cold foods every few days so as long as things are below 45 degrees or so, I'm golden...

WilliamA

GigHarborTom

WilliamA.. Always appreciate your expertise. I was thinking of 40 degrees. Did not realize there was that much difference. Unless out more than 5-6 days we seldom replenish. Now if there is a latte stand nearby, I get one for my bride in the morning.
Finally got a good battery charger monitor and volt for the trailer. Probably go back to carrying my Fluke on the road. Have always carried the Fluke temp gauge for bearing/wheel temps etc

GigHarborTom

Finally purchased what seems a good charger. Reading with my Fluke float between 13 and 14 V. Leaving on maintenance for awhile.