Accessing Existing T@G Wiring

TAGFloridaSolar

I'm a solar professional and I'm getting ready to pick up my new T@G XL Boondock. I'm planning on doing a major upgrade to the electrical system, not because I should necessarily, but because I can. It's going to be ridiculous, but it's a fun project for someone in my line of work. I'm planning to install a huge 48V LiPO battery and a 3000W inverter charger and then add solar both to the roof and a fold-out ground mount. Don't even ask what it's going to cost - my wife might see this post!

Anyway, I'm looking for any tips in advance on what I will need to remove to access the existing AC and DC electrical wiring, and what difficulties I might run into. I'm planning on rerouting the shore power inlet to the inverter which will be mounted where the cooler is in the galley (cooler will go in my truck). The battery, if it fits, will be in the same compartment. Then I need to get wiring back to the existing fuse/breaker panel. I prefer to not run any of this wiring under the chassis, but realize it might be the only way without ripping out cabinetry and walls in a destructive way.

Also, I'm not sure about the AC-DC 120-12V Converter location and ratings. That will be another factor. I'm thinking about removing the 12V battery altogether and just installing a small chassis mount battery for the brakes. All of the DC loads will run off the converter directly, which will take 120V from the inverter. If anyone has specs on the converter or if you have done this, please let me know.

Any of course, I will be happy to share my mods with the forum when it's all done.

JohnnyLoco

Following as I’m doing my own version

DaveB

Putting that monster of a battery along with all the other electrical upgrades in the place once occupied by the cooler, seems like an awful lot of weight being added to the very back of the trailer. Or have you already considered this and accounted for it?
Just curious. Sounds like a pretty big job to undertake, both physically and financially.
Can't wait to see pics of the progress.

ras

There's 4 inches of space behind the inside wall of the cooking area that accommodates the exhaust heat from the air conditioner. The cowbell exhausts on each side are centered on that space. The fuse box is mounted on the inside wall of that space (foot of the bed on the driver's side). The current electrical connections run in solid conduit on the underside of the trailer from the front battery box to that 4 in space and then upward to the fuse box. I have a 2016 5W not a 2021 boondock so no guarantees but I don't think they'd spent a lot of time trying to find new ways to run the wiring. If a photo of the interior shows a brown plate (the fuse box) in the open space below and to the right of the TV, the odds are I'm 100% correct and there's only 1/8 inch of plywood between your battery location and that space. Edit: I just looked at a you tube walkthrough of the 2021 Boondock. The fuse/breaker box is exactly where I assumed it would be.

I'd ignore concerns about the weight of the battery in the back. Most of us are trying to find ways to reduce our tongue weight and moving heavier items to the rear accomplishes that. The Boondock front rack gives you a lot of flexibility to add weight to the front if you need it. The converter is mounted behind the fuse box and provides a little more than 12 V. Can't tell you what the current rating is. There's a dedicated circuit breaker in the fuse box that controls its operation.

LuckyJ

Well I also gonna raise concerne about the weight that will end up behind the axle. Before putting the axe in the trailer, you might want to simply pull the ice box out of the hole and load everything you want to add in it and weight the tongue and see if you still have at least 130 to 180 lbs at it.

If so, you could be lucky. The XL T@G have a empty space in the rear corner where the ice box location is. The water tank does not cover the entire with of the trailer so you have about 1 foot of space in that corner that is actually completely empty space and if the walls under bed walls are drilled, you could run a cable from rear to front. I also found by pulling the floor that the piece of wood that support the side of the bed floor as an empty space behind it when you take it apart where electrical cable can be run.

As for under the trailer, from 2017 the wire under the trailer are not in solid gubing anymore, but more in a loom tubing. From the connection box under the a frame of the tongue to the rear of the trailer and lrear light as well where current is needed.

I almost forgot, well I did forgot but I came back and edited my post. If you are like you said an expert on solar, I just want to say that you coukd get scared when you begin digging in for wires. You will see slice guillotine connectors at many places. I wouks recomend if you dig so far in to take the time to remove them and solder every on of those splice.

Have fun thinking and llaning al this. 😊

McNutty195

I'm very interested in this as well! I'm in the midst of planning a lithium upgrade with mounted solar panels and an inverter. Have been trying to work out where to run/place everything.

@ras I completely agree with you on everything you said about the locations and geometry of things. I have found the same to be true in my 2018 boondock. The fuse panel is right where you are mentioning, and there definitely seems to be a 4in or so space between the back galley wall and the back cabin wall where most of the wiring and such resides. It sounds like you have previously accessed this space. Can you please clue me in on how to do that? I've taken a number of panels off before, but I have yet to figure out how to access that 4" space without just cutting a hole. Which is emphatically not an option. Wifey would never speak to me again! haha

ras

I cut a hole but it was on the other side to provide a vent for my Norcold frig into that 4 " space. I installed an exhaust vent in the opening I cut out. If you decide to cut a hole, stay to the outside of the exposed area. There is an insulated box in the center of that wall under the air conditioner extending downward to a visible air intake in the bottom of the T@G.. (some folks cover that when traveling on dusty roads for the obvious reason) Without going to the T@G and pulling out a tape, I'd say you have 14 inches or so from the outside wall toward the inside on either side where you can cut an access hole. A stud detector will reveal your actual limits. (Or slide under there, you'll see the vent, add a little extra) If you do it under the cabinet top, you can cover the hole with anything or use the piece you cut out and put hinges on it.

For general knowledge: By clicking on the "cog" in the upper right hand corner, you can edit your post and correct your spelling, grammatical errors or just plain errors. It usually takes me a couple of edits to fix my typing and/or ensure I'm communicating my thoughts correctly.

McNutty195

Thanks for the info. I've seen the insulated box you are referring to. I removed the air conditioner at one point, and when I reinstalled it I used Aluminum HVAC tape to seal around the exhaust box to try and avoid the supply and exhaust air streams mixing. Seemed to make a pretty big difference.

Also, thanks for the heads up on the editing cog. I am already aware of it though. I'm not really sure what errors you are referring to. I've reread my post and don't see any. Wouldn't claim that it is A+ material by formal English standards, but felt that it was perfectly acceptable for a forum post. I intentionally typed "wifey" if that is what you are referring to. I guess maybe it should be wife-y to be a little more phonetically correct. Was mostly just being "cute" to add a little personality.

ras

@McNutty195 said:

Also, thanks for the heads up on the editing cog. I am already aware of it though. I'm not really sure what errors you are referring to. I've reread my post and don't see any.

I didn't see any errors in your post, but I've seen a lot of instances where someone posts a follow up just to correct a spelling error rather than just fixing their original post. As i prepared that post, I realized how much editing I do and just decided to mention how to edit if you want to. Didn't mean to insinuate that there was anything wrong with your post or any other post.

McNutty195

@ras said:

I didn't see any errors in your post, but I've seen a lot of instances where someone posts a follow up just to correct a spelling error rather than just fixing their original post. As i prepared that post, I realized how much editing I do and just decided to mention how to edit if you want to. Didn't mean to insinuate that there was anything wrong with your post or any other post.

Ah okay haha. I saw the "for general knowledge" part, but figured you were just trying to be polite. No worries!

ras

I was just doing a little work on our T@G and looking under the sink I realized you would have to disassemble the water system and take out the sink in order to get a working hole into that raceway, accomplish your conversion and then reassemble it all. Sure wouldn't be the easy way. I have never attempted to remove the fuse panel, but that might be the way to go since you are going to be attaching to it anyway. Somebody on here has repaired or replaced the converter which is mounted behind the fuse panel. Finding those posts might be beneficial.