Renogy Lithium 110 amp battery vs Hondao 2000i generator for

AustinHealey

Headed to Alaska for the summer. Not sure how often I’ll have shore power. Currently have a zamp 140 watt suitcase charger and the stock interstate group 24 battery. For those of you with experience boondocking - would you get the Renogy 100 amp hour lithium battery or a Honda 2000i generator?

AustinHealey

TV is a 2020 Colorado Duramax, TAG is a 2020 with Norcold refrigerator installed .

Sharon_is_SAM

I think the Norcold chest frig uses about 4 amps while running, so worse case half duty cycle is 48 Ah per day from your TaG battery in addition to anything else you need to run. The stock 80 Ah battery is less than ideal. All it takes to deplete it to 50% before requiring recharge is a single cloudy/rainy day. I would start by increasing battery capacity. Even with the 100 amp lithium, you will only have 2 days of no charging before you need consider an electric hookup or geni.

The 140 watt panel under absolute ideal conditions will produce about 7.5 Amps - but realistically, due to inefficiency figure 3/4 of that, so say 5 Amps an hour. But it will take longer than that if you are running a load (frig) while charging. Unless you get in an area known for clouds, you will have more hours of sunlight, but only about 5 peak hours for charging, so moving/tilting panels will help. A way to hasten and ensure time efficient charging is to get another solar suitcase or small panel with a controller.

Some RV owners who boondock will go to a campground with electric hookups when they encounter prolonged clouds. You may consider this instead of a generator which is expensive, heavy and more to carry. Just something to consider.

Fourman110

For solar, I'd really suggest two 6v golf cart batteries. In addition to providing more usable capacity, they're designed to withstand the charging cycles. I started100W polychrystaline panels with the original battery and the system was way under sized for our use. Upgraded to two 6v batteries and it would charge ok but as the days went by we never really recovered to 100% of battery charge. Upgraded to 200W monochristaline panels and everything works really well. If I remember my original calculations, I needed more than 120W from the panels to keep up with the amount of juice we needed so I suspect your 140W panels may be adequate.

JamesDow

I switched to Renogy 100Ah iron phosphate smart battery. Have a 100 watt Renogy solar suitcase. Have been very pleased so far. I also got the Renogy battery monitor, which is matched to the battery and connects directly to the battery communication port (connects to built in Battery Management System [BMS]).

I would have a very high confidence level that my system would do fine to meet your needs. I also found that the built in T@G converter can get the state of charge (SOC) of the battery up to 94% when on shore power with the Norcold on. 84% when no Norcold on. Difference is how the converter cycles through charging states. I can get up to 100% SOC using my solar panels.

My only need for a generator is for running the AC. My generator is a 700/900 watt propane, which weighs 26 pounds. I rarely take my generator when I boondock camp.

beaky

lithium with portable panel should run the fridge indefinately

AustinHealey

Renogy has a heated and non - heated version. Which did ya’ll go with?

nichutchy4

https://teardrop-trailers.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/10650#Comment_10650

Hi @JamesDow this is the precise setup I’ve been looking at. I’m curious, did you mount the battery monitor? And where?

any tips you have for switching from the factory battery to this setup would be appreciated!

thanks!

JamesDow

Attached are some photos of how I mounted the Renogy battery monitor. I bought a clear $6 waterproof plastic box from Target, put some foam in it to mount the monitor bringing it up to the top, which allows for press of the buttons without opening the box. Pressing the buttons is seldom needed, since the display cycles through the various modes. It does allow me to easily place the Renogy battery in storage mode any time I wish. The box has Velcro on the bottom which matches with Velcro on top of the battery case. The monitor connects directly to the battery RS485 communication port using the RJ45 Communications Cable (Ethernet cable). I did not see the need to mount inside the T@G, and did not want to drill any holes either.

Switching from factory required a new battery case. After a lot of searching, I had to go with a Group 27 battery case ($14). The problem is it was slightly too long for my 2018 standard T@G. I had to cut, remove case handles and make some other modifications for the fit. Mounting the new modified case required some wood on the bottom to raise the level about 1 1/2". (sounds like redwood 2x4 to me). The battery case is mounted to the T@G with one bolt holding it down. (Same as stock, just with a longer bolt) I made up a cable to secure the battery down. Simple and somewhat of a pain, but it worked out fine.

Nothing else is needed regarding charging. The T@G converter will bring the Renogy battery up to 84% scope of charge when connected to shore power and will bring it up to 94% when hooked to shore power with the Norcold refrigerator on. (Difference is how the T@G converter cycles through its charging modes) To get to 100% is easy just by attaching to my Renogy solar suitcase. Half the time as what it took with he stock battery.

Overall, the upgrade was well worth it. I still conserve electrical power when boondocking, but no longer concern myself that I will run out of power.

By the way, I have the non-heated battery version.

.

AustinHealey

Thanks for the detailed description. What did you use the glue the modification to the battery box? Mine arrives tomorrow.

JamesDow

AustinHealey;

To modify the box, I cut with a Dremel grinding wheel (what I had), heated some sections using hot air (wife's embossing heat tool). I attempted to join by melting the plastic (failed). Final method was using hot glue gun (full size larger non crafting version). Added enough to keep water out. Worked great. Once tacked down, let cool a bit and then go and fill in where needed. I did not trim off the bottom of the folded down edges (they extended 3/4" below bottom edge of the box top - makes no difference)

Once in place in the T@G (still tight fit) I placed it so it would not rub, but could still be opened). Used one longer bolt, washers and nut to secure to T@G. I think I had to grind a little off of one side of an inside washer to make it lay flat. Note hole placement. (note: you do not want bolt head pressing into the bottom of your new battery) When the battery is in place, the existing wires will reach, but with very little extra reach.

Once done, the strap will reach to secure the whole box. As a precaution, I bought some plastic coated cable (3/16) , the aluminum crimp connectors and an inexpensive flat style combo lock. Cut cable with cutoff grinding wheel (not too tight) Loops (small) in each end of cable. Note one loop will need to go down through and back up the mesh at the bottom of the T@G. The cable and lock can be positioned so lock is on the side of the battery box (not hitting other things) Because the cable runs through the mesh, it can not be moved to slide it off the box. (Anti theft feature) One can not see what is in the battery box anyways.

I mounted the monitor on top of the battery box because I did not to drill holes in the T@G and you really do not need to check it often (besides curiosity). The extra cable for the monitor is inside the battery box. The communication cable fits but it may be a tight fit) I put a cardboard box spray painted black over the monitor box (minimize theft curiosity)

One last thing, I used some dense packing foam sheets inside the battery box (left over from Amazon order or something). Placed foam on bottom and sides. Battery nice and snug (no foam on top).

Overall an easy modification.

Mistakes or points to watch for: Bottom 2x4 needed a notch on bottom to sit flat over mesh. Hole for bolt securing battery box to T@G needs to miss drilling through the mesh. Think through the cutting of battery box modification (less is better).

Have fun - good luck

AustinHealey

Thanks so much for a detailed explanation