Norcold NRF30 failing??

dollydigital

My camper is now about 5 years old. When I turn on the fridge while on shore power, it takes a minute or two for the compressor to kick on. It will then work fine and get cold as needed. But then if I switch to battery power only, when the compressor tries to kick on, it turns off and the error light flashes. The fridge used to work on battery power. Is the compressor dying or is there an internal capacitor that is failing to temper the power inrush? I’ve seen one other owner add a polarized DC capacitor in parallel by splicing into the power line to the fridge that seems to solve the inrush issue.

Anyone else try this? Or fix their Norcold?

-Gena

ras

Have you tried changing the switch setting? If it's on 3 maybe move to 1 or vice versa. Down on the side next to the power cable..

beaky

switch to a Dometic, huge upgrade power usage wise. 5 year old Norcold is a flip phone now

LuckyJ

@beaky said:
switch to a Dometic, huge upgrade power usage wise. 5 year old Norcold is a flip phone now

Lol, I like the image and thrue, but....

The norcold always work on battery, even when hook-up to shore power. I would like others have said take a look at the switch position and then maybe your battery is a little weaker than it used to be. Could also be time for tge battery dirext connection. Could also be dust in the compressor /cooling system area. Like a house fridge, this needs some cleaning as well.

Then the dometic or ARb or similar units are very nice to have in the long run. But tgey could also fail in the same way if the battery and maintenance is not done.

dollydigital

Its not the switch position, and I have a brand new 100 w battery, and the fans are not blocked or dirty.

We have narrowed it down to a failing capacitor inside of the unit since its about 5 years old. When on solar and getting over 13V coming into the camper, the compressor starts and runs fine. The problem is when the battery gets below 12.4V, it stops working because the initial draw is too much. By adding a polarized capacitor in parallel by splicing into the power cord, this apparently overcomes the issue. We plan on installing a 2 Farad capacitor that is usually used in the installation of giant subwoofers in cars. This will let us use this fridge for a while longer until it completely dies.

valmayer

@dollydigital can you explain the same but in a language that a dummy can understand?
Maybe this is the problem I am having with my cooler that is giving me L1 code (that I don't understand what it is either.... read previously that is something related to heat limit ?!? No clue...

HikinMike

I have a 2019 T@G and the plastic latch on the lid of my Norcold cracked and broke.

I called a few dealers to no avail. I contacted Norcold and it took them a very long time to even locate the NRF30, even though it is on their website. Then I was told they didn't have parts because it is obsolete. Finally, a more experienced rep found what I needed but I would have to find a dealer since they don't sell direct to the public.

I got in touch with Camping World, they found the part for me but I had to order the entire lid as the latch wasn't sold separately. $145 for a 10 cent part.

I may retire the Norcold and use it for emergency home use only. But, I need something I can put in the space without modifications to the cabinet.

Sharon_is_SAM

I am not sure about the dimensions, but take a look at the ICECO compressor frig. Some TaB owners have installed them to replace their 3 way Norcold in an area that is pretty shallow.

HikinMike

Thanks. I'll take a look.