I'm struggling to identify the cause of this issue and so I thought to post about it individually here in the Electrical area.
The problem I posted about was that when I connect my [email protected] XL Boondock to my F150 2k generator I get a red light on the GFCI and it will pop. If I reset it will pop again in a few seconds. I do notice that the lights on the microwave come on, so I think there is a charge going to the battery, but the AC outlets by themselves do not work.
However, connected to my home AC, there are no issues and the AC outlets work fine.
I had this comment in another thread.
Maybe a Floating Neutral issue.. Do a search and you will find lots of info...
When I first read this it went right over my head, but now that I am home and can spend a little more time looking into it - I'm still very confused.
Per the owners manual on the F150 and its generator.
HEV Neutral bonded: The neutral of the inverter generator is bonded to system ground. Connecting loads that also have neutral bonded to ground will cause the ground fault detection to trip.
I used this article for information: https://generatorbible.com/blog/bonded-neutral-vs-floating-neutral/
Where you get into trouble is when using a floating neutral generator on an RV with a smart Electrical Management System that detects a lost ground at a campsite hookup. Because a floating ground at a campground is so dangerous, EMS units from companies like Progressive Industries are just doing their job and shutting down the power to the RV. But again, since the neutral of the entire RV’s electrical system is floating, it’s not really dangerous and these generators don’t require a grounding rod at all.
If you don’t have an EMS in your RV, then you can use either a bonded or non-bonded neutral generator.
In the manual for my trailer, I found this:
When connected to an external 120V outlet or generator via the 120V shore power cord, your camper will be supplied with power. The electrical system will be grounded via shore power if there is no open ground in the supplying outlet or generator.
And with other reading I determined that I do NOT have an EMS system on my trailer, which according to the above means I can use a bonded or non-bonded generator.
So to bring this all together, the F150 has a "bonded neutral" and my trailer, which does not have EMS, is a 'floating neutral' so it should work... which means I don't think this is the reason my GFCIs are tripping on the F150 power.
But then again, maybe I'm not understanding this properly and it doesn't help explain why my EMS surge protector is saying that I have an "open ground" on my truck.
Does anyone have any ideas on if this is a fault in the F150 2k generator that I should take to the dealer or is this something related to the grounding between the truck and the trailer?