Splitting a solar suitcase

I have a 200w Renogy suitcase solar panel. It works great, although a bit heavy. We downsized from a Tab 400 to Tag XL. A 200w solar panel is over kill for the TAG but 100w would work well, and would be half the weight. Has anyone split a suitcase set and used just one? I asked Renogy but their short answer was don't do it with no real explanation. I would seem pretty easy to do.
Thoughts?
Thanks

2022 T@G XL Boondock pulled by a 2019 F150

Comments

  • JamesDowJamesDow Member Posts: 661
    edited January 2022

    I have a Renogy 100watt solar suitcase. I believe it has the same 20amp Voyager controller as the (your) 200watt version has. If you look at the specifications from each, you will note that the 200watt version is essentially the same as what you would expect if the solar panels were hooked up parallel (which I believe they are). I see no reason why the suitcase could not be split. The output voltage should remain about the same, but the operating current would be cut in half. Cut in half approximately equals what my 100watt puts out.
    When splitting, I would suggest working indoors (cutting the solar current) when you disconnect (cut wires) from the panel junction boxes. I would then add MC4 connectors onto the wires, so you can always put back the system to a full 200watt system if the need or desire arises. (Renogy sells a solar panel to charge adapter kit for 9inch=$5.99 or 10foot=$16.99, which you would need 2 adapter kits) Make sure you have enough wire, so when you want to add the other panel back, you can do it with ease.

    Splitting at the hinge would require drilling out the rivets. (don't drill into the hinge itself, so the hinge holes stay the same size. (I would suggest having on hand some machine screws and locking nylon nuts (6 each) to replace the rivets if the need or desire would return to put the suitcase back to its original form.)
    Moving one of the folding legs may or may not be simple. Requires drilling two new holes (2) in one of the aluminum frames. Then unbolting and replacing a leg. With my 100watt suitcase, the new placement will just clear the charge controller. With your unit the legs may be reversed of mine (upside down). clearing the charge controller may be an issue.
    Finally, you may want to add some protection to the back side of the suitcase when it is in storage (transport) in its zipper case. I actually cut to size some 1/8" tempered pegboard to protect my glass during transport. I would think the same size could protect the back side of a split suitcase. I believe the little extra protection is worth the slight increase in weight.
    I tow with a 4-cylinder Rav4, so weight is very much one of my concerns. I totally get where you are coming from in wanting to cut back on weight. Unfortunately, you would not be cutting down on size. You would still be at about 36"x26"
    I wish you well in your process. keep the group forum informed of your results.

    Below is a little information on adding to a solar suitcase. You are doing almost the same, except subtracting instead of adding.

    https://www.rvforum.net/threads/adding-a-panel-to-a-solar-suitcase.128896/

  • jrhameljrhamel Member Posts: 9

    @JamesDow Thanks for the great info. I will let you know what happens

    2022 T@G XL Boondock pulled by a 2019 F150

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