Repacking wheel bearings?

CharlieNY

I couldn't find this topic on the site, although it's surely been covered many times, but how often do you folks get your wheel bearings repacked? And is there any truth to the worry that axle grease will settle away from the bearings if the trailer sits unused for months at a time?

Thanks for your thoughts!

JamesDow

I just regrease before/after  long trips and or maybe once every 16 months. 
Lower front trailer tongue all the way down. Lower one side stablizer. Crank up tongue and wheel will lift so it can be spun and greased. Repeat for other side. Very easy process.

ragtag2

My dealer recommends every 10K miles.

I have no idea what grease to use (lithium?/marine grade?)... suggestions @JamesDow?

JamesDow

@ragtag2 - Type of grease for wheel bearings can always be up for debate. An auto parts store should be able to suggest a type of grease. 
I do a lot of hot weather camping, so high temp grease was a consideration. 
Below (photos) is what I use. 
PROCESS:
It is important to spin the tires when adding grease. Thin latex gloves are good to have and some newspaper to protect floor/ground. What you are doing is pushing out the old grease. (When grease is pumped into the fitting, it is channeled to the bearing and eventually back out the grease cap hole). Be cautious of some sharp edges inside when cleaning up. Everything you will be doing is outside of where the bearings are. Pump out any air out of the grease gun.
Pop plastic (T@G) cap off with flat head screwdriver. Next, using screwdriver, pry off the black rubber grease cap (about 1 1/4" dia.). Now you should have access to grease fitting. Up to this point all is external to bearings, so should be clean. Push your grease gun onto grease fitting (click). Start slowly turning the wheel and pump the new grease in. (New grease should not be escaping immediately if grease gun is attached to fitting properly). After a short while the old grease will start pushing out. It may be different color than what is being pumped in. You can use some paper towels to wipe it away as you proceed. Pump some more in to replace old and you are done.  Remove your grease gun. (May take a little effort) Use paper towels to clean up any grease mess, replace rubber cap. Clean up 100% of any grease (watch sharp edges) replace plastic T@G cap and crank back down the tongue all the way and crank up stabilizer. One side done, repeat on other side. Entire process less than an hour. 

ragtag2

@JamesDow most excellent!  Thanks yet again for freely sharing your expertise and knowledge. 

I will no longer fear the unknown of what is behind that little hub cap (and look forward to putting another 10k miles on our rig so that I have a reason to pry that sucker off.)

ScottG

Do T@Gs have Al-Ko or Dexter torsions axles like T@Bs? If so, page 53 of this document posted on the T@B forum has specs and a list of recommended axle greases.

JamesDow

I believe my 2018 standard 5' wide has a Dexter Torflex axle. (Gross axle weight 2200 lbs.)

ras

I use a fairly inexpensive infrared thermometer (Ames Instrument) from Harbor Freight periodically to measure and record the temps of the T@G hubs (and my tow vehicle).  Normally less than 100 degrees F when stopped for fuel on a trip.  When I see a significant increase in temperature, I know it's time to get out the grease gun I carry with me or take my 4Runner to a shop.  If the grease gun doesn't lower the temps, it's time for a tear down.  Had to do it shortly after I purchased my used 2016.  The correct bearings and seals are available at Northern Tool

racpat

James, we also have a 2018 T@G, but the boondock model.  I just had to pull off the wheels to replace the brake magnets and it seems the plastic cap on my wheels can only be removed by pushing it to the inside after the wheel is removed. There is a grease nipel in there but i dont see how to access it without pulling off the wheels.

racpat

Please ignore my previous post. I just figured out the silver plastic disk with the T@G logo pops out off the plastic cone.