Off-Road ready Upgrades and mods

WilliamA

I am posting a quick video of my generator set up on the trailer and running as I do my monthly generator run/check. Thought I'd give you an idea of how loud it is in "maintenance" (quiet) mode and then with the furnace on as it kicks into high gear. Watching the video, I realized there's really no frame of reference as to how loud it actually is. In eco mode, which I use to charge the battery, it would be comfortable for two people to stand near it and chat. It kicks up when I turn on the furnace but easily runs the furnace and charging system simultaneously with no problem. The electric furnace draws about 850 watts or so and I'm making a wild guess that the charging circuit et. al. draws about 6 amps if the battery is "average". Have a look/listen:

https://youtu.be/g2aVLm-3Ftc

About 50 seconds in, I try and get some video of the voltage output to the battery. As I was running things today, starting voltage was around 12.6 static and with the generator running, it was charging at 14 volts with the furnace running.

I am planning to put in a generator transfer switch so I can hardwire the generator where it sits. It's not as invasive as it sounds. There will still be a simple wall-plug that goes into the generator, it will just have a rotary switch that isolates either the generator input or the shore-power input. As you might be able to imagine, if one were to have the shore power attached and for some reason, started the generator and hooked it up. Well....that would fall into the category of "things that happen that are bad." I'm pretty close to being 100% self-contained without much setup and would like to push that envelope to the point of not having to have any external extension cords at all. First, find a transfer switch....

For those interested in generators, I can only attest to the fact that I've had zero problems with my Generac 2200 inverter generator. It starts reliably (once you ignore the "press the primer 3 times" instructions and give it a good 6 or 8 pumps if it's been off for awhile. It starts well in cold (down to about 10 degrees or so is as cold as I've run it) with 10W30. I run straight 30 weight in the summer. It's not as quiet as the Honda or Yamaha jobs, but has higher output and costs half as much. Not a testimonial, just info. If I had it to do again, I'd buy the same one again. If you just absolutely need the quietest generator, the next model up Generac 2,000 watt inverter is a bit quieter for an extra 250 bucks. My research shows they all weigh about the same within a pound or two.
WilliamA

nbrandt

I came || this close to buying that same generator. Cannot see that the quiet is worth $500 + with the Honda. Then found the Sportsman with a Yamaha engine and it is duel fuel (gasoline/propane). I've only taken it on one trip. Have never put gasoline in it and so have been able to carry it in the TV. It seems to perform very well. I have two 5# LP tanks up front and am hoping to modify the front end storage this winter and use a T on one of the tanks and mount the generator on the front as you have done. Would like to get it on there in such a way that someone would find it a real pain to "life off" of there - perhaps even inside the box with the exhaust hanging out one end and the business end of the electrical outlets on the face of the other side of the tub. I will have to leave enough room to pull on the rope and get it started - but that's the dream.
NathanB

WilliamA

I finally got around to fixing the rest of the gacked-up wiring for my fender clearance lights and while I was at it, I got rid of the chrome pieces that cover the wire on top of the fender. I've always thought that, aesthetically, the chrome gobs on top of the fender looked more like somebody broke into the Liberace museum and stole the trim from the bathroom shower surround. It had to go. I pulled off the lights, pulled the small, compact LED's out of the chrome.....whatever-it-is-thingy and then drilled a hole directly under the small LED. It's held on separately by two screws. I put the wire down through the hole and screwed the LED back on over the hole and ran the wire under the fender, then down to the frame. Now all that's left is the tiny LED light and a couple of holes in the aluminum fender. I'll spoon on a bit of devcon in the holes, then paint the fenders with Herculiner bedliner spraybombs.

Here's what it looks like with the shower-trim removed:

As I noted, I've since run the wire beneath the fender and will fill the holes before painting.

WilliamA

WilliamA

Got a few details finished up today:
I made some small filler plates for the fenders and am very happy with the look.


I cut the bar in front of the generator so I can check the oil without taking the generator off. Much better...

WilliamA

WilliamA

Since I've been putzing around with the generator, I thought it was time to do what I've been wanting to do for a long time. Probably since I first got the gennie mounted. That's to run a dedicated 110V cord from the gennie platform back to the power supply so I don't have to step on an extension cord or mess around hooking it all up, then wind it up full of mud or gack.
I made a run to Fleet Farm and picked up a couple of new ends for a 12 gauge extension cord that I had. The female end of the cord was the worse for wear and it also had a split in the cover about halfway along so I cut both ends off and wired on a 90 degree plug on the generator end, then put a 110V standard 15A plug on the other. I first ran a length of PVC electrical conduit under the trailer and got that all secured. I drilled a hole in the floor directly to the right of where the trailer (factory) wiring goes up into the body. I got a PVC 90 degree angle and put that on, then cut a short (12") piece of PVC conduit on the top end of the 90 and shoved that up through the floor with a tube of caulk to get things dry and tidy.
I pulled the pigtail water sprayer thingy out of the side of the trailer and drilled a hole in the inside top just big enough to run the extension cord through, then caulked it all and stuffed it back in there. I put the female plug on (with LED!) and put everything back together. Voila! No exposed wires and an easy way to have instant power without having to unload the buckboard and set up the GP medium to get it. I did a good test with my generator running everything I normally run and it works fine. I still need to find a tip-up cover for my outlets on the generator. All they had at fleet farm was the patio style with side openings. I want a plastic one that opens from the top so I can plug in and then close it over the plug to keep the weather out.
Here's the generator end. I ran the extension cord from where it comes out of the conduit through a wire loom protector. I also put on a grommet and tape where it comes up through the deck aluminum. Nice and tight there...

For the other end, I ran my wire out past the water-balloon filler (I have it disconnected and plugged inside) and can just tuck the pigtail in behind the hatch cover while on the road.

It is my intention to install a marine source selector switch next to the power supply inside the trailer, between the box and the drivers side wall. I have found a few but my little voice says that more research is needed before I purchase the switch. There are many on-line with prices ranging from $13 bucks up to hundreds of dollars. I like the idea of marine-grade hardware for the 110V side so I'll probably spring for one in the $80 buck range. Plus, they are prelabeled and look nicer than the cheapo industrial jobs. I particularly like this one:
https://www.englundmarine.com/products/ac-source-selector-switch-3-0|NEW-SS3.0.html

For now, it's nice to be up and running again with all of the things pretty much checked off the list. More to come.

Less adventurous types might just zip-tie an extension cord along the inside of the frame...Where's the fun in that?

WilliamA

nbrandt

WilliamA
I give thanks for your willingness to share your work on this site. It is wonderful.
I understand that bad things will happen if you are hooked up to shore power and would then start the generator, but with only one receptacle on the trailer, isn't it either going to be hooked up to shore power or the generator? Am I missing something or how could it ever be hooked up to both at the same time? Certainly there is safety in isolating it which is never a bad thing. Or are you isolating the inverter in the trailer?
NathanB

WilliamA

Nathan,
I'm blushing. Thanks for the kind words and encouragement! I appreciate it.

As to your question....You are right and didn't miss anything. As long as I were to leave it wired as you see it, there couldn't be any collisions with inputs. I'd have to disconnect the generator cable to plug in my shore power cable.
But...
The ultimate goal is to hard-wire the generator cable (currently hanging out of the shower locker with the female plug on the end) directly into the input of the power supply. Basically, I'll have two inputs wired to a common load. Assuming I wired it that way and plugged into shore power while the generator was plugged in, Electro-boom.
Here's a quick graphic to illustrate:

As you can see, if the generator is plugged in and shore power is applied, the power is free to back-feed directly to the generator. A manual switch for this sort of thing is called a transfer switch. It usually has two or more sets of contacts working simultaneously that allow switching between two or more inputs to one output. These switches are also (this is really important!) "break before make" switches. This is where electricity starts to get a lot more interesting. You're not only routing electricity, you're also timing it. A break before make switch breaks its contact completely before hooking up its next contact. You can imagine that even a momentary contact with both circuits would probably feed enough power into the generator to smoke it up. Yes, there are also "make before break" switches. A good example of that would be headlight dimmers. When switching between high/low or vice-versa, you momentarily get both sets of beams, rather than going out completely for a moment. It's not something people think about much. It's also less of an issue with direct current where voltage matches and there's no pulse (cycle). In A/C, the cycles need to match exactly or there will be a crash of sparky proportions. Not just voltage matching, but cycle (hertz or phase) matching as well.
Luckily, for me it's just a matter of getting the correct switch and putting it in the right way. No phase matching necessary because there will be a complete disconnect of one circuit before the other comes in.

WilliamA

nbrandt

Thank you - that explains it.

I also understand your desire to hardwire so that you don't have to curl up the extension cord. Even the water hose and black cord to shore power get dirty or wet and then you have to watch where you store them or lay them down - or brush up against you in such a way that your wife says, "How did you get so dirty already?"

I noticed as well that it looks like you bolted your tie straps that hold the generator to the tongue of the trailer. I have been wondering if one couldn't replace the bolts in the rubber feet of the generator (perhaps 1/2 longer) and then bolt it right to the trailer tongue. Those are just ideas swimming in my head - and some of what swims there isn't necessarily a good idea.

) Don't let it go to your head, but I do scan this forum for what you write 'cause it's good stuff.

WilliamA

@nbrandt said:

Thank you - that explains it.

I also understand your desire to hardwire so that you don't have to curl up the extension cord. Even the water hose and black cord to shore power get dirty or wet and then you have to watch where you store them or lay them down - or brush up against you in such a way that your wife says, "How did you get so dirty already?"

I noticed as well that it looks like you bolted your tie straps that hold the generator to the tongue of the trailer. I have been wondering if one couldn't replace the bolts in the rubber feet of the generator (perhaps 1/2 longer) and then bolt it right to the trailer tongue. Those are just ideas swimming in my head - and some of what swims there isn't necessarily a good idea.

) Don't let it go to your head, but I do scan this forum for what you write 'cause it's good stuff.

Nathan,
Thanks again. I try to post useful or at least entertaining information.
As to bolting the generator on, I looked into that. The rubber feet on my gennie just have 10mm lag screws holding them into the plastic case. It would be a simple affair to just drill the platform and add longer screws but I do occasionally use it off the trailer and my brother borrows it from time to time as well. There are quick-release kits around as well but my current system works well enough that I don't feel the need to upgrade. I did modify the ratchet straps so they are permanently attached on both ends so it's solid but super handy to pull it off should I want to. The Generac design is thoughtful and leaves maintenance room without removing the tie-downs. I gave a lot of thought to putting it inside my tool box but there are just too many obstacles to making that reliable, the most difficult of which was making it quiet. I set it in there soon after getting it and ran it for a tiny test and it turned my entire toolbox into an amplifier! It was crazy obnoxious. The Generac is also a bit taller than the box so I'd have had to drop the floor a bit. Maintenance access would have been problematic as well. Lots of considerations went into where it ended up. My first choice was to build a mount behind the right side fender but proximity to the body proved to be excessively noisy there too. It would also have been too close to the passenger-side air inlet (cowbell) for my fresh air system. It has turned out to be pretty much a perfect fit where I have it. It also stays surprisingly clean there, which I like.
WilliamA

nbrandt

William
I haven't looked very hard at the bottom of this Sportsman, but I don't know that I would trust a lag screw into plastic. I would think there would be enough torque on that at times that the plastic would fail. I hadn't thought of attaching the tie down straps.
My plan with the generator was build a custom box put it in the box but let the muffler be on on the face of the box on one side and the outlets be on the face of the other side including some type of flip down lid that would protect the outlets from the elements. But I wondered, even with the muffler hanging out, there is still engine noise apart from the exhaust (metal running against metal though separated by a film of oil still makes noise), and yeah, I'll bet that would get amplified as well.
One more electrical question. These generators have a separate plug and cord for charging a 12 volt battery, but we can run the extension cord as you have shown with the 110 adaptor and as we run it (for whatever appliances we have that require 110) it will also at the same time recharge the trailer battery, with the trailer inverter doing the switching work - correct?
NathanB

WilliamA

@nbrandt said:
William
I haven't looked very hard at the bottom of this Sportsman, but I don't know that I would trust a lag screw into plastic. I would think there would be enough torque on that at times that the plastic would fail. I hadn't thought of attaching the tie down straps.
My plan with the generator was build a custom box put it in the box but let the muffler be on on the face of the box on one side and the outlets be on the face of the other side including some type of flip down lid that would protect the outlets from the elements. But I wondered, even with the muffler hanging out, there is still engine noise apart from the exhaust (metal running against metal though separated by a film of oil still makes noise), and yeah, I'll bet that would get amplified as well.
One more electrical question. These generators have a separate plug and cord for charging a 12 volt battery, but we can run the extension cord as you have shown with the 110 adaptor and as we run it (for whatever appliances we have that require 110) it will also at the same time recharge the trailer battery, with the trailer inverter doing the switching work - correct?
NathanB

---

As to the first, I don't trust the lag screw into plastic thing either. I think it would be fine but a better option (imo) would be to de-construct the generator far enough to drill the housing and put bolts down through the case. Lots of work for not much gain, plus, you'd have to deal with the bolt ends when not mounted.

I've looked at a few generator boxes (there are quite a few commercial builders making them) and all seem to have the drawback of airflow. I want my gennie hanging out where it can get all the airflow, and just as important, ambient dissipation, as it can get.

The 12V generator plug....For me, it's mostly a fancy do-nothing gadget. I have the jumper with alligator clips that came with my gennie for charging batteries etc, but keep in mind that the 12V output from the generator is un-regulated. It will put out its capacity (mine is around 8 amps) all the time the generator is running. 8 amps doesn't sound like much but it's a lot at 12V! It'd boil a battery dry in jig time if you didn't monitor it. It doesn't have any regulator to cut the output as the battery charges. It would be fine for plopping in front of the Tow Vehicle and spritzing in a few volts to get your TV going, but for battery charging, it's just the wrong tool for that job. The onboard distribution panel/battery charger is exactly that. It's got a battery monitor that decreases output to the battery as it charges, preventing overcharge. In addition, I believe from my rudimentary tests (multimeter) that the onboard distribution panel has higher initial output, bringing low batteries up to speed faster. It then step down to trickle to finish the job. The onboard charger ala 110V distribution panel is a much better way to keep the battery up. The 12V outlet would be really handy though for stringing a 12V trouble light or a string of worklights, etc.
Hmmmm.....

WilliamA

nbrandt

William,
I like the 12V trouble light idea - that could be handy - it would be a lightweight cord - and long enough could be handy in changing a tire at night on the road. There could also be a small 12V air compressor as another tool that would work for emergencies.

So, a guy gave me a 50W solar panel that I have used a couple of times and it seemed to do a nice job of helping the battery stay up during the day when boondocking. He gave me the panel but I had to buy a controller for it. In theory, a guy could run the 12V output from the generator through the solar panel controller instead of the solar panel and it would work at least somewhat the same as the onboard charger of the trailer - regulating the output of the generator - right? Because I rigged up the solar controller with Zamp style plugs - a Zamp styled extension cord on the 12V output of the generator could run many things...?
NathanB

WilliamA

@nbrandt said:
William,
I like the 12V trouble light idea - that could be handy - it would be a lightweight cord - and long enough could be handy in changing a tire at night on the road. There could also be a small 12V air compressor as another tool that would work for emergencies.

So, a guy gave me a 50W solar panel that I have used a couple of times and it seemed to do a nice job of helping the battery stay up during the day when boondocking. He gave me the panel but I had to buy a controller for it. In theory, a guy could run the 12V output from the generator through the solar panel controller instead of the solar panel and it would work at least somewhat the same as the onboard charger of the trailer - regulating the output of the generator - right? Because I rigged up the solar controller with Zamp style plugs - a Zamp styled extension cord on the 12V output of the generator could run many things...?
NathanB

Nathan,
There are a lot of variables in the equation. I'd say that, if the controller has capacity in excess of the generator output then some testing is in order but it should work. For me though, the better solution is still to plug the generator into the shore power and let the converter do the sorting out.
WilliamA

WilliamA

Back to my obsessing about frame strength and subsequently, tongue weight.

I've been wanting to do a bit of gusseting on the new pintle and lunette since I welded the lunette mount up. Although I have lots of miles on it since I did the install and welding, I still want to add a bit of a security blanket so this morning I made some templates so I can add gusset plates between the hitch mount and frame. I'll pick up the flat steel (.120 or 1/8" wall thickness) and get them cut out in prep for welding. I am also moving the spare tire to the rear side corner of the trailer to transfer more weight rearward. After a long, two day weighing and moving frenzy last week, I decided that I need to move 50 additional pounds of weight back behind the axle. I weighed my spare tire (235/75/15 radial mounted on a steel trailer wheel) and it's 45 lbs. I clamped it on the back of the trailer where I want it and it removes about 30 lbs of tongue weight and puts it "mostly" where I want it. I really want it centered but that's just not going to be an option unless I put it underneath or make a swing-out tire carrier to mount it behind the kitchen hatch. After drawing up 3 complete designs for that and deciding it's just too much messing around and, not to mention, adding about 30+ lbs of weight just for the swing-down carrier I decided the next best option is to make a carrier that goes behind the axle on the side of the trailer. I need to make a carrier that bolts to the frame and stands off from the side of the trailer about 1 1/4" so there won't be any danger of rubbing on the side of the trailer. I have it all designed up and did my weight calculations for the material needed plus the weight of the spare. The spare weighs 45 lbs and the tire carrier, made from 1 1/4" DOM tubing with a wall thickness of .120 and including all of the various pieces needed to make the tire mount will weigh about 18 lbs. Perfect. While I don't really want to hang a bunch of weight on one side that isn't reflected on the other side, there's really no good option. Under the trailer reduces clearance by a bunch (over 10 inches) and behind adds too much weight for the necessarily complex swing-out carrier so the die is cast. It's on the side, up high.

While this tire carrier works well and happens to be exactly the right height, there may be a friction coefficient involved. I also think the color clashes with the rest of the trailer.

I'm putting the tire up high and close to the fender so I won't need to move the clearance light at the back corner. The bottom of the tire will be about 4" above the bottom of the frame.

I want to get about an inch and a half or so of back-spacing between the rack and trailer side. At this distance, the outside of the tire still sits slightly in from the outside of the fender. That's fine with me. Now, to go up to the shop and bend up some tubing. Maybe next week.

I also got around to adding two support brackets to the Tow vehicle side. I took the pintle off and moved it to its highest position on the receiver, then drilled the receiver to move it in an additional 1 1/2 inches. I made up these brackets just to add a bit of stiffness to the whole affair and also make a handy step. It eliminates rattles as well. The most difficult part was drilling a 5/8" hole in the solid 2x2" receiver. I elected not to do it by hand (or I'd still be drilling instead of writing this) and used a milling machine. I drilled starting with a 1/4" standard bit and stepped up in 1/8" increments, then finished the hole with a 5/8" flat cutter used for milling. Perfect. Thanks to my brother for letting me use the shop.

The additional 1 1/2" doesn't sound like much but it gets the trailer tighter to the tow vehicle and also increases (dramatically) the departure angle clearance of my Jeep without having to remove the hitch. I spray-bombed the whole affair with Herculiner bedliner spray.

More to come...
WilliamA

LuckyJ

Once again, a project that is nicely coming along.

Just so you know, so far, I have never regreted moving my spare to that location.

And you can think that the weight to one side, could be a bit recuded by the fact the the water tank is not all the way to the right on the XL T@G. So when full, it will probably oftset the weight a bit.

WilliamA

@LuckyJ said:
Once again, a project that is nicely coming along.

Just so you know, so far, I have never regreted moving my spare to that location.

And you can think that the weight to one side, could be a bit recuded by the fact the the water tank is not all the way to the right on the XL T@G. So when full, it will probably oftset the weight a bit.

Yeah, I'm hoping that's the case. I also want to add a mount for the Rotopax on the back (rear facing) of the rack. That'll move an additional 10 lbs or so. That should put me under 200 lbs even with the generator on board.

Here's the raw technical drawing without dimensions:

It's a bit devoid of details but I have it firmly in my head and all the dimensions are on my notepad. While this drawing is to scale, I'll have to translate the dimensions to radius lengths anyway for the tubing bender so there's no need to plot the height/width on paper. I've got the angles off the trailer base and the radius. That's all I need to get it bent up. And.....I drew the entire pattern complete with tire on the side of the trailer in pencil.
Hopefully, next week...
WilliamA

LuckyJ

@WilliamA , i do not know if this is you plan, but I would recomend that you frame bracket utilize bot side of the frame corner. Meaning the right side and the rear side of the frame corner. Plus, you will dind holes that are already predrill in that location, on both side of the corner. But you must have seen that already.

WilliamA

@LuckyJ said:
@WilliamA , i do not know if this is you plan, but I would recomend that you frame bracket utilize bot side of the frame corner. Meaning the right side and the rear side of the frame corner. Plus, you will dind holes that are already predrill in that location, on both side of the corner. But you must have seen that already.

Luc,
Yeah.. I have thought it over and penned up a bunch of designs. I am going to run one stiffener along the rear frame crossmember about 30 inches and use the existing holes, but back the holes up on both top and bottom with cold-rolled (better radius angle. Easier to drill) angle iron. I hope to get the material tomorrow and either go up to my old shop and use the bender or bring it here. I gotta get this stuff done pronto. Need to be ready to head south by the end of the month!
WilliamA

WilliamA

@nbrandt said:
I came || this close to buying that same generator. Cannot see that the quiet is worth $500 + with the Honda. Then found the Sportsman with a Yamaha engine and it is duel fuel (gasoline/propane). I've only taken it on one trip. Have never put gasoline in it and so have been able to carry it in the TV. It seems to perform very well. I have two 5# LP tanks up front and am hoping to modify the front end storage this winter and use a T on one of the tanks and mount the generator on the front as you have done. Would like to get it on there in such a way that someone would find it a real pain to "life off" of there - perhaps even inside the box with the exhaust hanging out one end and the business end of the electrical outlets on the face of the other side of the tub. I will have to leave enough room to pull on the rope and get it started - but that's the dream.
NathanB

Nathan,
I'm curious about your propane usage on the generator. Any stats?
WilliamA

WilliamA

@LuckyJ said:
Once again, a project that is nicely coming along.

Just so you know, so far, I have never regreted moving my spare to that location.

And you can think that the weight to one side, could be a bit recuded by the fact the the water tank is not all the way to the right on the XL T@G. So when full, it will probably oftset the weight a bit.

LuckyJ,
I was just doing the math on your comment about offset of water tank weight with the spare carrier. As it works out, the weight of the spare and carrier, including the additional offset, comes out to within 8% of the full water tank! Genius! Good vibes to you on that catch!
As to the design, it works out great, if accidently. More oroof that "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while".
WilliamA

nbrandt

WilliamA
I have no stats on the amount of propane that the generator uses from my experiences. I took an eight day trip the third week of August and did run the generator about 1/2 hour each day for four of those days and didn't run out of fuel. I still haven't put any gasoline in the generator and would probably only do so in an emergency situation. The documentation that comes with the Sportsman Generator claims that it will run 18 hours @ 50% load per 20 lbs of LPG fuel. So in theory I should be able to run it 4.5 hours @ 50% load with a 5 lb. tank. I take for granted that 50% is economy mode. It is a 79.7 CC motor. The peak surge wattage is 2200 and rated wattage is 1800 delivering 15 amps at 60 Hz, 120 volts.
NathanB

WilliamA

@nbrandt said:
WilliamA
I have no stats on the amount of propane that the generator uses from my experiences. I took an eight day trip the third week of August and did run the generator about 1/2 hour each day for four of those days and didn't run out of fuel. I still haven't put any gasoline in the generator and would probably only do so in an emergency situation. The documentation that comes with the Sportsman Generator claims that it will run 18 hours @ 50% load per 20 lbs of LPG fuel. So in theory I should be able to run it 4.5 hours @ 50% load with a 5 lb. tank. I take for granted that 50% is economy mode. It is a 79.7 CC motor. The peak surge wattage is 2200 and rated wattage is 1800 delivering 15 amps at 60 Hz, 120 volts.
NathanB

Nathan,
That's the info I was looking for, I was curious how long it would run in "maintenance mode" for battery charging etc. I like the clean burning propane but have to admit some trepidations about fuel consumption. Also, I have heard that propane can be a pain in cold weather with regulator icing. The only experience I have on that is VW beetle engined zamboni's on propane. The city paid me to convert both over to gasoline because of it.
Thanks for the info. Fyi...I used to carry my gennie in the car before I built the rack. Never had so much as a whiff of gas. I think most fo them are made to seal well and not be a problem.
WilliamA

nbrandt

There is another limitation to the propane and it is altitude. They assume you are running it at 4000 feet or lower. We did have it at 6000 ft and it ran. That was August. I would think that thin air and cold temps could be a real detriment.
I did borrow a friends old generator before I bought this. You would not have wanted that critter in your car unless you actually liked the smell of gasoline. It was a metal cap with a gasket. No doubt a new gas cap and or gasket might have helped, but you are right - the newer plastic caps seal up tight.
At 47 lbs though, I would like to get away from lifting and having to move this generator more than I have to do so - even with its handy carrying handle. So I would like to get it mounted on the tongue, but with you I sense that means moving that spare tire behind the axel.
Are you going to post some more details of your rack? Another thought to ponder - I find that our our refrigerator gets rather heavy when loaded up - especially with a few bottles of beer added to the mix. And I like traveling with the water tank empty to reduce overall weight. So now I am wondering if this won't be overloading one side? I could offset some of that by putting heavier items on the left side of the T@G as we travel.
NathanB
2017 T@G

WilliamA

A quick post update.
I got my metal and also had my buds at the metal shop do the rough cuts for me on my tongue stiffener pieces. Then I blasted up to my old shop and dragged out the bender and roughed in my spare tire mount. More on all this later but a couple pics for you to scratch your head over:
Here are the gussets Bob cut up for me along with some of the patterns:

Here's the rough spare mount. It actually fits quite well but needs a bit of drilling, grinding and final fitting. I can't do the detail welding until I've had it mounted so that is going to wait until it at least stops raining.

WilliamA

CFD614

Looks awesome William! Lucky do you have any pictures of your spare tire mounted there as well? Ive been thing of doing the same but still looking for ideas to mount it.

Thanks!

WilliamA

Just got it drilled, filled and mounted!

It's sitting back as far as I could go without causing issues with my awning and the rear side light.

the two legs sweep under, then rejoin on the frame spreader. The mount foot is adjustable up and down to fine tune how close it sits to the body of the trailer. It's solid.

I chose to mount it to the frame in this fashion so it can spread the weight and also have a wee bit of give for the up-down adjustment of the foot.

here it is without the spare mounted. I had wanted to use fine thread 1/2"x20 tpi bolts to match the size and pitch of the hubs but my local source didn't have them in the length I needed, so I am using 1/2"x6" 13tpi carraige bolts. The shape is weird, but it allows for 3 point of contact of the tire against the carrier. In order to get the tire to clear the carrier, I would have to use at least 7" long bolts or mount the tire with the tire valve in. Don't want to do that. I have nuts behind the wheel as well as on the outside so it's tight. The nuts use the same wrench as the lugnuts. For security, I'll use a bike padlock.

Now it's left to take it all back off, a bit of filler welding to close up the end of the tubing, sand and paint. I also plan to put my Rotopax 1 gal gas can on it in the center of the carrier. It has a lock so once that's mounted, it will cover the carrier mount nuts and add security. Maybe I'll order a spare cover. We'll see.
One more:
I might adjust it in another 1/2" but it does have some flex so I want to be sure it's not so close it will contact the side of the trailer on rough riads. I also have 2 rubber bumpers that will go on the back but won't install them until it's painted.
I'm really happy with it!

WilliamA

LuckyJ

Nice work @williamA

@CFD416. I do not have a full build-up and I did erase some of the pics, plus, T@G is not around to take more for now, but here are a few.

The arm is made of 1"x2" tubing, the frame attachment is made so it will skin the corner of the frame with 2 verticale 1/4"x 4" x approx 8" long plate (1 on the rear side of the frame and 1 on the side where the arm is welded to.

And I was able to keep the stabilizing jack where it was.

I have used many predrill factory holes and if memory is correct, drill one on rear and one on side of frame members. I have about 1/2" of space from the side wall, and I have no movement what so ever. No idea if the added balancing stress to the trailer, but 8000 miles and two camping season later, still happy about it, and added ground clearance as well.

WilliamA

I got a hole in the weather today so I finished the putzing on my rotopax can mount for the spare tire mount.
It's pretty simple. a flat bracket that attaches with the 3 wheel bolts, a 3 inch standoff and then the rotopax mount. The rotopax can pretty much covers the bolts for the spare mount so it's one lock to secure both. To remove the spare, I'll just pull the gas can, remove the 3 bolts and pull off the mount with wheel.

I took the extra step of weighing my tongue weight with everything repositioned. It's settled in now at just under 220 with everything mounted. I'd like to peel off another 20 lbs but that will happen anyway when I load up the groceries. I'm pretty happy with this wet weight. Now it's just wait for another hole in the weather so I can pull it off and paint it. Next week perhaps....

WilliamA

WilliamA

I braved the snow today to get my gusset plates welded to the hitch. I had to do a bit of prefit of the plates I had cut so that took an hour or so. I ran over to my brother's house and did the welding. I'm pretty happy with the results as I feel it's got a lot more torsional as well as static strength. I didn't spend much time cleaning up the welding spatter or detailing the finish but I'll do that this coming week when the weather gets warm enough to at least get a spritz of paint on that will stick. Sounds like Wednesday or Thursday it will be up to 50 or so. That's probably as good as it's going to get for the year so that'll have to do.

Before gusseting:

After gusseting:

I am glad to have this stuff in the rearview mirror for the season. I am leaving on the 8th of Nov to go out to Scott's Bluff for a bit of exploring and camping and will be glad of the peace of mind the gussets afford. You almost never hear anyone say: "It's too strong. Weaken it up a bit."

WilliamA

LuckyJ

@WilliamA. Way more meat for sure. Food work!