Can I wire my Dometic directly to my battery?

DakotaRed

I was wondering if I can run a wire from the battery with a fuse to the Dometic cooler? Wouldn't this help with conserving the battery when I am not able to plug in? I'm not sure how much juice the converter uses but it seem like it would help not to have to run it.

Thanks
Craig

WilliamA

This has come up a number of times and has had me scratching my head. To the best of my knowledge, the converter uses no power from the battery. It's a "converter", not an "inverter". It's basically a battery charger that converts household current (110 volt) to 12 volt or so DC. It doesn't use power when on 12 volts. One could, I suppose, make the argument that some residual voltage is lost back through the rectifier diodes, but it would be on the same order of loss as your car when it's not running. That's to say, virtually too small to measure without sophisticated equipment.
I installed a digital voltmeter in my rig to monitor battery condition but otherwise ignore "phantom" power drains as nonsense. I'm willing to bet that the total power loss through the entire stock electrical system is not much more than the battery loses naturally through sulfation leakage. Sure, the radio, tv, etc use power because they are never truly off but in a deep sleep.
When it comes to automotive foibles, I am the most tedious, anal retentive person I know. I haven't spent ANY time chasing phantom volts because my digital voltmeter has proven to me that there's no problem to fix. The most volt-wasting device I have in my trailer is my digital voltmeter which I hard-wired and stays on all the time. I leave my trailer with the battery in and on for days and weeks at a time and have never seen voltage loss of more than 1 or 2 volts.

If I know I'll leave my trailer for more than a few weeks without using it, I'll turn off the battery disconnect. Other than that, as they say in New Jersey: "faa-git-abat-it".

WilliamA

BBsGarage

True, but if the cooler bypasses the converter, then the battery switch can be turned off with the cooler still operational ( I would add a switch and fuse to the new cooler line as well) Thus removing all of the draw down from the other sources of "phantom" power drains.

LuckyJ

@WilliamA i have had some bad experience with the type of usb charger that we have in the T@G, in both my vehicule. Basically, they would take my batteries down in a week. With an on/off switch to them, nothing lost, and batteries are still good after months.

And other thing is that the wires are too small and route to to many circuit imo not to loose power. ARB to spec i stallation recommend 10 GA wire at least from battery to frig for longer length of connection. I do not have number here to prove my point, just the fact that the norcole is very picky on power and that if I let my batttery switch on w/o the fridge running, when I am back from my week at work, battery is dead. When switch if off, no lost.

And my digital meter is on a momentary switch.

I am as we speek doing the direct to battery fridge connection. i will keep you posted if it was worth it. And yes a fuse in the line, but no switch, since the fridge as one.

And I agree that the converter/charger should not be using any battery power.

DakotaRed

Thanks for the responses. I am taking the trailer on its first trip this week and am trying to figure out the best way to keep the cooler from running the battery down. We will have a few days without electricity. Does anyone know who many amps the converter putts into the battery when it is plugged into shore power? I am wondering if I should bring my battery charger and use that instead.
Thanks

DakotaRed

Just got back from our first trip with the trailer. We ended up boondocking the whole time. I brought my brothers generator to use. Glad I did. The battery would of been dead after 24 hours. The temp was in the 40s at night and low 60's during the day, I really thought I would be able to get 3 days without having to charge the battery. Am I going to have to get a bigger battery or maybe 2 6v?

Fourman110

Likely. Solar would help, though wasn’t enough for my one 12v battery. Dropping the fridge or using it as an ice chest would be a big help. Ended up using 2 6v batteries but haven’t used it yet. The numbers look a lot better though (demand vs supply calcs).

@DakotaRed said:
Just got back from our first trip with the trailer. We ended up boondocking the whole time. I brought my brothers generator to use. Glad I did. The battery would of been dead after 24 hours. The temp was in the 40s at night and low 60's during the day, I really thought I would be able to get 3 days without having to charge the battery. Am I going to have to get a bigger battery or maybe 2 6v?

DakotaRed

Solar might be in the future but it would of not been worth it on this trip. Mostly clouds and rain, only a couple of sunny days. A generator is going to be a must have.

OutdoorEd

I have a decent deep cycle marine battery. It'll easily go 3-4 days if we're only using the fridge (set on 40), water pump and a couple lights. If we charge our phones and run the fan, maybe use the TV on a rainy night, I just pull out the solar panel. Even on an overcast day or in a mostly shady spot, it re-charges it enough. On a sunny day, it only takes a few hours. When we first got started with the T@G, I used to worry about the battery but I eventually figured out I didn't need to. Tip: charging phones is a real power sucker and setting the fridge at 40 instead of 35 makes a big difference.

Fourman110

@OutdoorEd said:
I have a decent deep cycle marine battery. It'll easily go 3-4 days if we're only using the fridge (set on 40), water pump and a couple lights. If we charge our phones and run the fan, maybe use the TV on a rainy night, I just pull out the solar panel. Even on an overcast day or in a mostly shady spot, it re-charges it enough. On a sunny day, it only takes a few hours. When we first got started with the T@G, I used to worry about the battery but I eventually figured out I didn't need to. Tip: charging phones is a real power sucker and setting the fridge at 40 instead of 35 makes a big difference.

Good info. What battery do you gave?

OutdoorEd

I> @Fourman110 said:

Good info. What battery do you gave?

>

Like I said, it's decent but nothing special, just a 110 ah deep cycle marine from AutoZone. I think I paid $130. With solar, it's everything I need.I keep my eye on the meter, but I don't fret over it.

Michigan_Mike

I agree with LuckyJ in that the wire size to the Norcold is the key, as is an on/off switch to control voltage feeding to the unit. Parasitic drain does occur and LED circuits will consume energy as they do in parked vehicles with computerized systems.

An idle/isolated battery will also discharge voltage over time on its own too, so nothing is sacred and even with the battery switch in the off position it's a good idea to plug the trailer in for 2-3 days a month (or every few months) and top it off via the converter.

The converter is in effect a battery charger so no need to carry along an extra battery charger on trips. The trailers electric converter provides 120 volts AC to the trailer electric outlets when the trailer is plugged into shore power and also provides 12 volts DC to all LED lights, USB ports, 12 volt receptacle, Norcold cooler, fantastic vent fan, water pump, Jensen stereo, TV, etc.

I'm not a big generator fan (to each his own here and am not trying to create an argument) as they are noisy, they irritate other campers and also necessitate carrying fuel. I've camped around individuals who were only concerned about themselves when using a generator, had one lady tell us that her and her husband planned to turn it off once the network news broadcast was over just after 11 pm (quiet time started at 8 pm). But on the flip side they do come in handy during long duration power outages at home.

I've used solar successfully and boondock for four months in Arizona in a solar community, and in the right geographic area it is a viable commodity. I have a 200 watt Zamp portable panel (my secondpanel owned) and will admit that it has been a learning experience. Solar isn't for everyone, it's not cheap and my advice to anyone considering it is to think about it in advance, weigh your options of use before making s purchase and whether the majority of your camping trips will be to campgrounds with hookups or boondocking and in high sun areas. No need to invest in a panel, only to leave it home collecting dust in the garage!

Happy trails!

LuckyJ

@Michigan_Mike said:
I agree with LuckyJ in that the wire size to the Norcold is the key, as is an on/off switch to control voltage feeding to the unit. Parasitic drain does occur and LED circuits will consume energy as they do in parked vehicles with computerized systems.

An idle/isolated battery will also discharge voltage over time on its own too, so nothing is sacred and even with the battery switch in the off position it's a good idea to plug the trailer in for 2-3 days a month (or every few months) and top it off via the converter.

The converter is in effect a battery charger so no need to carry along an extra battery charger on trips. The trailers electric converter provides 120 volts AC to the trailer electric outlets when the trailer is plugged into shore power and also provides 12 volts DC to all LED lights, USB ports, 12 volt receptacle, Norcold cooler, fantastic vent fan, water pump, Jensen stereo, TV, etc.

I'm not a big generator fan (to each his own here and am not trying to create an argument) as they are noisy, they irritate other campers and also necessitate carrying fuel. I've camped around individuals who were only concerned about themselves when using a generator, had one lady tell us that her and her husband planned to turn it off once the network news broadcast was over just after 11 pm (quiet time started at 8 pm). But on the flip side they do come in handy during long duration power outages at home.

I've used solar successfully and boondock for four months in Arizona in a solar community, and in the right geographic area it is a viable commodity. I have a 200 watt Zamp portable panel (my secondpanel owned) and will admit that it has been a learning experience. Solar isn't for everyone, it's not cheap and my advice to anyone considering it is to think about it in advance, weigh your options of use before making s purchase and whether the majority of your camping trips will be to campgrounds with hookups or boondocking and in high sun areas. No need to invest in a panel, only to leave it home collecting dust in the garage!

Happy trails!

Really like the comment coming from expirience Mike, since any solutions as good and bad.

Thank you!