Battery won't charge on 110v

blackc2004

Hi, I have a 2017 T@G and my battery doesn't seem to be charging when on 110v. I checked all the fuses and everything seems to be OK. When I charge the battery directly and then use 12v items, it appears to work OK.

Any suggestions?

BBsGarage

This may seem like a silly question, but do you have the battery switch in the on position when plugged into shore power? The battery will not charge from shore power if it is not.

blackc2004

@BBsGarage said:
This may seem like a silly question, but do you have the battery switch in the on position when plugged into shore power? The battery will not charge from shore power if it is not.

No question is silly, but yes I have the battery switch in the ON position.

I was wondering if maybe the because I have the AC and the cooler running (it's 107 here) at the same time. Perhaps there's not enough power to charge and run those items?

TomD

The battery gets trickle charged from the invert and that takes a while. If overnight the battery is still not charged in the least bit then I would be suspect of the invert operating properly.

blackc2004

Is there a way I can test the inverter directly?

Verna

I would imagine you could measure the voltage going in, after disconnecting the 12V feed from the inverter. If that measures 12V DC, connect it back to the inverter.

Then disconnect any 110V wiring from the inverter. Turn the inverter on, and measure the 110V AC coming out of the inverter.

Tell us what you see. A digital multimeter would be best for measuring, but an analog multimeter can still measure.

blackc2004

Hi, sorry can someone tell me where the inverter is? I pulled the fuse panel out and I'm not getting ANYTHING on the 12v side when the battery is disconnected.

Michigan_Mike

There is no inverter in the trailer, but you do have an electric converter. There is a difference between an actual inverter that converts 12 volts DC to AC (alternating current) 110 volts. What you are referring to as the fuse panel in your trailer IS the electric converter. The converter provides 12 volts to your trailers 12v lights, the TV, water pump, etc. when plugged into shore power. The converter also allows 110V AC power to the plug receptacles in the trailer when the trailer is plugged into shore power.

An electric inverter when attached to a 12V DC battery will raise the voltage up to 110V AC. So if you disconnected the trailer battery you won’t be getting any voltage to the trailer.

What exactly are you trying to do or what problems are you experiencing? How old is and what trailer do you have? Hook the the battery up and tell us if your trailer lights, TV, cooler, pump, etc. are working. Are you trying to get power to the 110V receptacles? If so, plug the trailer in to shore power and if the electric converter is working you should have power to the receptacles. If you have connected the battery up and have no 12V DC power to the trailer check the fuse at the battery. Also, photos help and you could post up a photo(s) if your battery wiring,

The electric converter in your trailer should will most likely be mounted on the wall near the TV and you should see a rectangular cover there and this will be where all your fusing is located. When you open the cover there should be a listing of the fuses and what each fuse is for.

Sharon_is_SAM

@blackc2004, on shorepower, your battery is disconnected or the battery switch is turned off and you measured the 12 v output at the fuse box and there is no 12 v power correct?

Try this, unplug from 110, reconnect the battery and turn the switch on, remove the main converter fuse. After a couple minutes, replace the fuse. Sometimes you need to reset the main power center in order to have the converter charge the battery.

Sharon_is_SAM

Here is info Mike posted a few years back over on the TaB forum regarding the same scenario - hooked up to 110 and no output to the 12 v appliances or battery charger.

Check the Converter

To determine that the electric converter is the problem start from the beginning, and where the 110 volt AC supply enters the trailer power converter as follows:

1. With the trailer electric converter connected to shore power (120 V outlet), check the voltage at the point it enters the converter. It should read approximately 108 to 130 volts AC. This is a an acceptable reading.

2. Next, check the voltage where it connects to the 12 volt DC breaker box. It should read approximately 11-13 volts DC to operate satisfactorily. Anything less indicates a bad power converter.

Note: If you are running the refrigerator (via the 12 volt DC system) between camp sites and home and your tow vehicle is not adequately charging the battery via the alternator, or because you have no dedicated feed wire back to the trailer, this would drain the battery quickly, especially if it is an older battery. The electric converter is basically a trickle charger and floats the battery charge, provides 12 volts DC to the trailer lighting and accessories.

blackc2004

I think this white fuse is blown. I am getting 116v on one side (top) of it and nothing on the other side (bottom). Is this something that can be replaced? It looks as if it’s soldered onto the board.

MikeLucky

Check the inline fuse in the cables coming directly off of the battery first.

JamesDow

You mentioned 107 degrees. I was just in 108 desert camping and my converter would shut down due to the built-in thermal protection circuit. Once the protection circuit kicks in, all of the 110v circuit is down. (no fuses or circuit breakers are tripped) The only way that I know of resetting is to wait for things to cool back down. So far, I have not learned of a work-around or fix. Sure would like to have ac when it is 108.

LuckyJ

Wonser if the AC fan exhaust would help cool things down. Since it sure help cooling down the feet side of the wall when the AC is running. I often realized that I turn the exhaust fan cause my feet touch the hot walls at night. When fan runs, wall is way cooler. And it is not just under the AC, but even below the jensen radio.