My Dealer Installed Battery Appears Inadequate

HikinMike

I just purchased a 2019 T@G Boondock Edge (5 wide version). I really like it so far. Took it straight from the dealership and dry camped overnight.

The dealer had installed a Deka Marine Master Deep Cycle 12 V Starting Battery. Group 24, CCA 550, Ref MCA 675, Mins @ 23A=140, Mins @ 25A=120.

Seems like it should be more of a house battery since I have nothing to start. The space looks like it will hold something larger than a GP24.

I will probably switch to a dual 6V at some point, but what single 12V batteries are some of you running?

Thank You.

Chaverim

I also had a group 24 Marine/RV battery installed by the dealer. I took it out and put in this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1QBRLQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I got rid of my box and got a different box, so this is the biggest battery I could use and don't want to go much larger anyway due to weight and I have my generator on a lock down plate attached to my tongue as well.

What was originally installed was a DC24MF (Amp hrs 20 hr rate / CCA:75 ah / 730 amps)

beaky

a starting battery is different then a deep cycle battery, take it back

beaky

we are thinking about switching to twin 6 volt setup, much longer amp hours

HellFish

Replaced the crummy battery the dealer put in with a 115 AH group 27 true marine deep cycle battery from menards...cost about $80 on sale. The battery cost cuts into the dealer's profit so I guess some of them (all of them?) go cheap. This battery, a 100 watt solar briefcase, and sunny days were adequate for my Norcold cooler and lights for a month-long trip out West last year in a T@G.

HikinMike

Chaverim, that Mighty Max looks awesome. Hellfish, I saw your battery, I wish we had a Menards in Texas. What brand Solar did you go with? I dont really need to watch a movies but I do like a cold drink at the end of the day.

mgreen2

My T@G also came with a dual purpose marine/RV NAPA battery installed by the dealer. It may not be the best but it’s done fine for us using a Renogy 100 watt solar suitcase when we don’t have power at the campground. The big draw is the Norcold cooler and it’s going to drain most any battery over 2 days. We did 2 weeks in Florida this year using the Norcold, fantastic fan and lights and the solar panels kept everything going with no problems. When this battery dies I’ll buy something better but I don’t see any reason to replace it before then.

tagurit

We did an almost month long trip from Pennsylvania to the west coast and back, staying in a combination of campsites with and without hookups, never turned the Norcold off except twice to defrost it and had no problems. We just have the original stock 2017 Interstate group 24 charged by the converter when hooked to shore power and the alternator when driving. We have a 100 watt solar suitcase (Accopower, works great) but never used it on the trip. We decided to go with a suitcase generator for extended boondocking over bigger batteries since it allows us to use 120v appliances besides charging the battery. Plus, we can leave it home when we don't foresee needing it instead of hauling 120 pounds of batteries all the time. FYI - definitely recommend one of these monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ontheroad

The battery is supplied by your dealer...luckily our dealer outfitted us with a good one also...

Fourman110

Mine came with a car battery. I ditched the propane tank and installed 2 6v batteries in series. http://teardrop-trailers.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/248/my-mods#latest

WilliamA

@tagurit said:
We did an almost month long trip from Pennsylvania to the west coast and back, staying in a combination of campsites with and without hookups, never turned the Norcold off except twice to defrost it and had no problems. We just have the original stock 2017 Interstate group 24 charged by the converter when hooked to shore power and the alternator when driving. We have a 100 watt solar suitcase (Accopower, works great) but never used it on the trip. We decided to go with a suitcase generator for extended boondocking over bigger batteries since it allows us to use 120v appliances besides charging the battery. Plus, we can leave it home when we don't foresee needing it instead of hauling 120 pounds of batteries all the time. FYI - definitely recommend one of these monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd just like to mention that it's a good idea for folks using one of the cigarette lighter monitors to keep the contacts clean. Many of this type units have a barrel fuse with spring contacts and get crusty. It can lie to you if that happens. No special tools or lube needed. Just take the fuse out from time to time and reinsert it. If you really feel the need, a small dab of electrical contact grease works well. Cigarette lighter plugs are notorious for sketchy contacts. The upside to them is you can move them around and check your TV or other plugs too. Handy. Just a thought...

WilliamA

HikinMike

I’m dumping the Dealer installed 65 Ah battery and picking up a Trojan SCS 150 100Ah. That should work. Solar panel will be next. Zamp suggested a 180W portable as I like to run the NorCold and watch an occasional movie before bed. But I read that many owners are using 100W setups. What do you think. Thanks to all.

Sharon_is_SAM

In general, start with identifying how many amps you use daily and how long you typically boondock. For best battery life, you should only use half your capacity before recharging. You may be better served simply having a higher battery capacity.

Regarding solar, you should pair your solar wattage to your battery capacity - so, 100 watt panel with 100 amp battery. If you have plenty of sun to recharge daily, that is all you may need. You can always start with a 100 watt suitcase and easily add more later as needed. If you like value for your money, check out the Renogy open box specials on Amazon. They have built in controllers for plug and play (like Zamp), but much cheaper. They also have suitcases that allow you to add your own controller and keep it close to the battery as it should be. You can also choose your own size controller to allow expansion of future panels. Renogy has excellent customer service, too. We built our own system with their help.

180 watts is excessive for a 100 amp battery and a lot of coin.

Here are some good resources from a TaB owner experienced in solar.

https://jenngrover.com/2019/01/how-much-solar-do-i-need/

https://jenngrover.com/2015/11/guilty-as-charged-rv-battery-use-management/

https://jenngrover.com/2016/01/guilty-as-charged-rv-battery-use-management-part-ii/

https://jenngrover.com/2016/06/solar-for-long-term-boondocking/

And, famous Handy Bob😀

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

WilliamA

Things have been quiet around here for a few days so I have settled in to do a bit of reading. To that end, I pored over all of the links here provided by Sharon_is_sam and started working my way out in a wide circle around all of the information about solar power for RV's. All of this new rumination on the subject lead me yesterday to be standing in front of the battery display at the local Fleet Farm. I didn't go in there to peruse batteries. I was actually looking for a small percolator to use on my upcoming trip to Az.
The first thing that took me by surprise while checking out batteries is the dizzying array of sub-categories in the deep-cycle battery line up. I could say something like; "for someone like me who is auto-savvy" etc, but in reality, I don't have a very deep knowledge base when it comes to RV/trolling motor batteries. I've simply not ever been concerned about them. I had one on my pontoon boat and obviously have one in my T@G, but that's about the depth of my experience. In addition, I've never had any issues with either one of them, so the squeaky wheel has always been on some other topic related to camping/RVing, boating. I will spend more time reading up on the subject, but suffice to say I need additional schooling on batteries. That said, if I needed one today or tomorrow, I'd just go in and get another one like the one I now have, which leads me to the one common thread in all of the various articles provided here by Sharon_is_sam and others.

"YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY."

I suspect that there are many here who labor under the impression that I'm anti-solar. I've given some pretty strong opinions on the subject and have done nothing to give anyone the impression otherwise. Perhaps it might surprise you if I said that I am very much in favor of solar power, but not for my own use as it relates to my RV/camping needs. It's a really simple equation for me. I don't use it for 2 reasons. First, I don't want solar for the same reason I don't bring a tent. I just don't want the hassle of setting up a tent or a solar array. Second, I have not found any reason to do either of those things, solar or tent. My camping style is that of a drifting vagabond. I seldom spend more than a day in one place. I back in, go do the looking and doing, then hook up and go. On those occasions when I do leave my chuck-wagon parked in a campsite for a few days straight, I've not ever had the need to consider solar because I've never needed it. My onboard battery has the beans to meet my needs for 2 or 3 days without any charging and, past that, I have just plugged into my TV or started the gennie for a quick 30 minute pick-me-up.

Back to the common thread mentioned up there^. Reading all of the articles here and past, and watching many of the video's as well has highlighted the simple, often stated phrase that "your results may vary". It depends upon how you use your rig. For those like me who have ants in their pants, it doesn't make a great deal of sense, bang for the buck speaking, to outfit with solar. Even a modest system is expensive. I'm a big advocate for cheap but I don't advocate being cheap for its own sake. I spend good money when the job calls for it and solar is one of those areas where a good system means (or should anyway) spending money to get good components. Reading through the articles has pointed in that direction as well.
As Sharon_is_sam pointed out also, it doesn't seem to make sense to get more solar than one has battery to put it in. It makes no more sense than buying 12 gallons of gas to fit in your 10 gallon tank.
More to the point in general, the thread that runs through all of the information I've read on solar use is that you need to find out how much power you need, then build to that end. It's a bit of the chicken and egg to say go and use your trailer, gather data on requirements for power, then come back and buy all the stuff you need to go use your trailer. Unfortunately, it really IS like that in the real world. It's difficult (as Einstein put it) to hit a target you can't see. So how does one even do that? For myself, I like to be a "head-first" kind of person. I go "do the stuff", then figure out how that worked. I picked up my T@G at 10:30 a.m. and set up my first camp at noon the same day. Camping/data/more camping, get some stuff/camp, data etc.
A good yardstick for me is how much stuff I'm collecting vs how much stuff I'm getting rid of. The small (but annoyingly persistent) voice of the accountant in me says that, of all the junk I consistently buy, if I'm peddling about 8-10% back out to the world, I'm about right. If it gets up to 15%, that means I'm not being careful enough in my research. If it drops below that, I'm not being daring enough.
I'm obsessive about not being a "collector". I don't have stuff for stuff's sake. I spend a good deal of my time simply sorting through tools, material, gear etc culling out stuff I'm not using. I HATE hauling or storing extra stuff. I'm in the game to collect photos and experiences. Not much else means anything to me, whether it be StuckNagel or maps. I get rid of any map that's more than a couple of years old, (with the exception of USGS topo maps. The road through the mountains may change often, the mountains themselves don't.)
My own experience tells me that so far, I've not had a problem with power for my rig so I haven't done anything (save getting a gennie to run my furnace) about it. I seldom use the gennie, but it's one of the few things I like to have simply because in the event I need it, like a fire extinguisher or medical kit, there's no substitute.
Power needs vary wildly for everyone here. Some need more, some less, but no one ever needs exactly the same amount as someone else. It's easy to get caught up in the tech and end up with stuff that doesn't fit the need. For my money, I'd rather go out and find I need more stuff than haul a load of stuff around that is just in the way.
But then,
Your results may vary.....

WilliamA

TomD

William..old road maps are great for wrapping presents in. Repurposed if you will. My house has solar and It’s been great. However, solar for camping is another animal. The results vary.

Tonopah

I think my T@G came from the factory with a group 24 deep cycle battery and the factory 100 watt flexible solar panel on the roof. I store the tailer in shade but plugged into shore power. I figure I start a trip with a full battery, it stays full on the way because it feeds off the tow vehicle, so I arrive at a dry camp with a full battery. I am assuming the installed solar trickle charges when camped and that should help a bit?

Sharon_is_SAM

Your solar should be charging as you drive down the road. At camp, the ability for your 100 watt solar panel to recharge your battery will depend on how much you deplete your battery and the availability of sun. Best to park in the sun!