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Window Screen assembly falling out...How to..

WilliamAWilliamA Member Posts: 1,311
edited July 2019 in Tips & Tricks

Here's a down and dirty on how to more or less permanently fix the falling-out-screen assembly problem. I had already repaired the passenger side screen assembly when I had it out to do some other work, so this one is the drivers' side.
Here's the (I strongly suspect) common problem. The screw holes wallow out over time and then the screen tends to get loose and hang on them making it worse. The more one tightens, the more they strip out. On the bright side, they are screwed into an aluminum subframe of some sort within the Asdel wall material.

I suppose it's possible to install some sort of expanding anchor ala sheet-rock or picture hanger, but I've tried that with limited success on the other side. I elected to put Rivnuts into the wall and fix it for good. In this photo, you can see the "nose" of the Rivnut tool and then, the brass colored insert. The insert screws onto the tool and installs exactly like a standard pop-rivet with the exception that, when finished, you unscrew the nose of the tool and it leaves a threaded "nut" on the inside of the wall. In this case, I'm using standard thread (10-24 TPI) inserts. These are steel, which I humbly believe to be a better bet than the available aluminum ones.

It's a pretty straightforward process. Once the screen assembly is removed, the first step is to chamfer the edge of the hole. The nutsert must sit tight to the aluminum subframe and that means stripping away the vinyl paper and any substrate first. I'm using a 1/2" drill bit here. I just drill VERY slooooooowwwwwwly to carefully strip away the first bits with the drill until I get down to the aluminum substrate.

Here's the aluminum substrate peeking out under the outer layers. I'll drill the aluminum out to 5/16" for the nutsert to go in, checking to make sure that all the outer layer fuzz is not in the way.

Once I'm satisfied that the nutsert is sitting tightly against the aluminum, I'll "pull the trigger" on the installation tool and pump it until I feel heavy resistance. It might mean that I'll pump it down, then release the pressure and tighten the thumb wheel on the tool to get another bite. Once it gets too tight to squeeze with one hand, it's set. Then it's just unscrew the thumb wheel and remove the tool.

Here's what should remain. Nice and tight and also countersunk within the wall covering material so the screen will sit tight against the wall with no gaps.


I drilled out the screen assembly holes to 3/16" so the #10 screws would go in easily, then replaced the screen.
Boom.....Done.....Boom.....

Now, the tricky part will be (as it has been for the duration of my ownership) spending a lot of quality time trying to work out how to keep the corner pieces attached so they don't fall off every time I move my camp. At least, I don't have to worry about the screen falling off between stops now. I'll caulk the joint as I did on the other side. In addition to looking nice and cleaning things up, it will cover the tiny edge of the nutsert and also eliminate any errant skeeter runways...

As to keeping the corner pieces on, Bullwinkle would say:
"This time fer sure!"

I love an optimist....Even when it's not me....

WilliamA

"When I am in charge, Starburst brand fruit chews will get their own food group....and where are all the freakin laser beams? There should be more laser beams..."

2021 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk
2017 T@G XL
Boyceville, Wi.

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