Norcold Low Battery Shut-Off Switch Setting

JamesDow

Does anyone know the logic as to why Norcold indicates; -
“When using the AC/DC converter to operate the refrigerator, make sure that the Low Battery Shut-Off Switch is in either position 1 or 3.” Since I bought my T@G, my switch has always been set at #2 (Battery and/or converter). The Norcold always works fine. The converter on my T@B output is consistently 13.6 volts. I do not understand the Norcold information. Does anyone have any insight? -- -- I will attempt to contact Norcold to see and explanation from them.
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Sharon_is_SAM

So, it sounds like if you are on shore power and feeding DC voltage from the TaG converter, if there is current fluctuation down to 11.6 v, the frig turns off at setting 2. Setting it to 1 or 3 gives you a lower detected “off voltage” so the frig will run without being inadvertently turned off with voltage fluctuations. That’s my best guess.

JamesDow

That is a bit whit I think also, except I have never experienced a power fluctuation. Readings have always been spot on with specifications (13.6 volts).

Sharon_is_SAM

I would like to see their explanation.

rfuss928

I think they are referring to the Norcold AC/DC converter cord accessory. This is the small power supply you use when you want to plug in an AC outlet to power the refrig/cooler.

Sharon_is_SAM

Oh - that makes more sense! Did it come with one of those @JamesDow?

JamesDow

Spoke to Norcold (800-543-1219) and after the Customer Service Representative spoke with someone else (Technician?), they indicated that it would fine to run the “Low Battery Shut-off Switch” on #2 setting if I am not experiencing any issues. Since my converter is putting out a consistent 13.6 volts, it would always switch on with the converter. If a converter was putting out less than 12.5 volts, that the unit would not switch on.  They did not mention anything about their Norcold A/C Adapter for NRF portable refrigerator/freezer (Model ADPV32). I believe Rfuss928 is correct in that the instructions and side label refer to “using the converter” and not “a converter”. The Norcold output is: DC 24V / 6.0A. I think they (Norcold) may not have put 2 & 2 together. A bit hard to determine since the adapter is not referred to as a "converter". –

The reason I like the #2 setting, is that it would switch off when on battery power at 11.6 volts, instead of dropping down to 10.7(#1) or 10.4(#3). I would rather save my battery over food in nearly all conditions.-

Michael

JamesDow's picture of the Wfco panel reminds me of something. Is the a/c (110 volt) power of every recent T@G (mine is a 2018 5W) wired in a manner that is shown by James picture? Mine was the same before I "fixed it".

There really should be the following breakers in the unit..

1) a 30 amp main.

2) a 15 amp for the converter.

3) a 15 amp for the air conditioner.

4) a 15 amp for the galley GFI which daisy chains to the other interior 110v outlets.

However as mine was delivered (like JamesDow's picture) there is no main. The buss is always hot. The 30 amp feeds the converter which is WAY too much breaker for that unit. The other two are fine for the air conditioner and the rest of the outlets.

What I did is purchased a Siemens tandem 30/15 and fed the input into the 30 amp side and moved the converter to the 15amp side.

So I now have 4 breakers in the panel wired as listed above which in my opinion is the way they should come from the factory.

I don't recommend anyone doing this rewire unless you feel confident in your electrical wiring abilities. Understand if not done correctly you could burn your trailer down or worst. I'm just stating what I did to correct what I feel is a deficiency in NuCamp's build.

LuckyJ

The 1 and two setting are usefull when using the battery as power source. Witch will go lower than when the inut is plugged in shore power mode.

WilliamA

Settings 1 and 3 are (probably) necessary when using the Norcold A/C adapter because the startup voltage will drop below 11V, causing the unit to kick back off. This is NOT the case when running off of either the trailer battery or shore power. Both of those sources are capable of driving the startup voltage above the unit-off threshold. I suspect that because of this curious factoid, using the Norcold power supply would possibly reduce the service life of either the power supply or the compressor. It's possible (this is just a guess) that the Norcold power supply may have some variation of soft-start circuitry built in. That would also require some sort of low voltage bypass for the compressor to start at 10.5 or so volts....

Just working the problem backwards goes a long way toward explaining the reasons for that switch.

I'm guessing, but it's a good guess. The math requires it be so.....
WilliamA