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Comments
Dave, yes there are three fans as original equipment in my 2019 tag boondocks edge. One per cow bell and one in the middle below the ac unit. I think there's way too much space around the lower fan. The idea of sealing that area around the lower fan(s) to create a plenum of sorts would, I think, optimize the evacuation of the hot air. Sucking cooler air in from the cowbells and exhausting it below. Again, this is like going to a meeting of scientists and researchers and discussing a new theory. There are always caveats and couching opinions with "I'm sure there are others here who know much more than I"
It's just a system that is working for me....so far.
I like the idea of a plenum for the lower fan, but I don't think the single fan could match the airflow potential of the two cowbell fans, so it could create a bottleneck. Now a plenum with 2 or more fans in theory should work quite well I would think. Have to keep in mind that the AC unit is an apartment window shaker unit that has been put in what amounts to a cabinet so there are going to be some application hurdles to deal with. I also noticed the place we bought ours from has some new arrivals and they no longer have the Danby unit, and now have an Haier unit in its place.
Toronto, Ontario Canada
2020 T@G Boondock Edge XL
Right Dave, plenum with at least two fans.
I think the theory behind the current design is sound just needs more power
(grunt, grunt, grunt) 😂
What about two or three fans at the plenun, and none in the cowbells? It would create air circulation anyway. ???
You never see a house kitchen exhaust fan with 2 stage of fans. Just a tought.
That is how my 2018 Outback edition is as well. Three of the same fan (I'm pretty sure didn't look that close when I had it apart) One of each of the cowbells as you described, and the one exhaust behind the center panel. The cowbell fans are meant to pull air in, and the center panel to exhaust air out. I actually have all three of my fans exhausting right now. (I reversed them by turning them around) This isn't really how it should be, and I plan to switch it back while I have everything apart for the upgrade I've spoken of above.
Reversing the fans did seem to make a bit of a difference though. I think it is aiding in removing more of the exhaust that the exhaust fan is missing. The AC is maybe, hopefully still getting enough intake through the interior cabin. I don't really recommend reversing the fans though. Better to fix the root issue and not potentially starve the AC from fresh air.
One other note I'd like to add to this thread: It is possible that the AC may not work to its optimum extent because it is too large for the space. It should adequately cool (mine can bring the temp down to <60F, granted mostly tested inside my garage) but you may find you have a humidity problem. This has been discussed some in other threads. I think the consensus is the humidity problem comes from running a 5000 BTU AC in a tiny space that is way to small for it. No real fix because they don't really make production AC units smaller than 5000 BTUs. I added a small dehumidifier and it has helped substantially though.
2018 T@G XL Outback edition
TV: 2021 Honda Ridgeline Black Edition AWD
Dayton, Ohio
I think the cowbell fans are somewhat needed. The system has a lot of right angles, unlike the kitchen fan which uses round ducting with gentle turns. Think of it more like PC system, my PC runs much cooler with the 4 fans in a push/pull configuration than it does with just 2 fans pushing air out. Also the distance becomes a factor, you can feel a PC fan blowing air a couple feet away, but it lacks the power to move any volume of air much further. Far too much science for me to wrap my head around.
Just have to do things the OG way...duct tape and trial and error until you find what works best.
Toronto, Ontario Canada
2020 T@G Boondock Edge XL
Ahhhhhhh...duct tape...come to the dark side😂😂
Our 2017 5 wide has the three fans, I think all models do.
Success! My dealer, Rogers RV in Burnet, TX, fixed the problem. After trying several new units, they pulled one from a new 2020. Instead of a Danby it is a Perfect Aire. Same result, however. Worked for a little while then the compressor shut down and hot air started blowing.
Turns out it isn't the unit at all. The ducting area isn't sealed very well as some of you have surmised in the comments above. They installed the unit, took the floor out of the Mandy Cabinet then taped and sealed the compartment below. Now all that hot air is able to exhaust out the bottom instead of just blowing around in the leaky cabinet.
I took her out for two days in 100 degree weather and left the unit on non-stop for the entire time. I dang near froze to death. I do agree the design is poor. nuCamp needs to address this right away. And the air blows right in your face and the thing is loud as heck. But I was comfortable. Also, I didn't open any vents or windows either. I will be buying an extra blanket, however.
2019 T@G Boondock Edge 5W
2017 Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro
2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 4xe
HikonMike that’s great news. I think there’s some really substantive information here that will help solve this problem for a lot of people. Hopefully give some insight to the NuCamp engineers as well. Good stuff.
Id love to find a small bladeless fan (coanda effect?) that could be adapted to that exhaust space.
Still wondering about the idea of a plenum design. Could you get a Venturi effect as well?
dont we have an engineer/physicist in the house?😂
HikinMike, I agree that is very good news! I will also look at the seal around my AC unit when I go to install the 3D printed gasket for the plenum that I have spoken of above.
I have all the parts in, just waiting for the printer to finish the parts. (Need to relevel the print bed when I get off work for the last print) Not sure that the seal and extra fans will be completely necessary if the AC is sealed better, but hey it certainly can't hurt. Hoping it improves the humidity problem that I have been having.
Will post pics when I get it installed!
2018 T@G XL Outback edition
TV: 2021 Honda Ridgeline Black Edition AWD
Dayton, Ohio
Can’t wait to see and hear about the results. 👍
So I took BBstringers advice and added 2 more fans to the 1 on the panel below the AC. It has definitely made a difference. My first test was on a 85 degree day, partly sunny low humidity and trailer in the sun, no shade. It was 100 inside when I started. After 1 hour it was down to 82 and all seemed great. An hour later it had actually risen to 86 and seemed to be blowing hot air.
It seems the insulation in the cabinet below the AC is not very good and after running for a while the heat was just radiating from the bottom into the cabin, not exiting down the exhaust. I cracked a side window and that was the key. It was now pulling air from the outside and the AC started blowing cold air and after another hour getting down to 74.
Once I can pull the AC out and tape/insulate the cabinet, it should not be a problem to cool.
Pulled the AC out today and the cabinet definitely needed taping to eliminate heat leaking into the cabin. After I taped the cabinet and re inserted the AC it worked perfectly. The bells on the side had noticeable air suction, absent before. The cabin temp dropped to 74 (86 and sunny today) but would go no lower. Cracked the top vent and an hour later it was 68.
Adding the fans and taping the cabinet made a huge difference.
Sorry that I kind of dropped off the map with this. I agree mostly with Herd. Taping the cabinet made a big difference for ours.
I'm a little surprised Herd can only get his down to 68 degrees though, especially since he needs to crack vents to do it. Mine runs all the way down to 59 degrees in the cabin with all doors and windows sealed. Granted that is in my hot and humid garage (no sun) so maybe that is why.
Sadly, I haven't been able to try my 3D printed part idea. I got it printed out and completed, but because of the way I aligned everything, it won't fit with 3 90mm fans. I didn't take the insulation on the interior wall on the sides of the opening into account. As it stands, I'm too busy trying to get other things done for my wife and I's trip to Seattle, WA from Dayton, OH at the end of this month. Maybe at some point after that I'll get back to this...
2018 T@G XL Outback edition
TV: 2021 Honda Ridgeline Black Edition AWD
Dayton, Ohio
Hey, it's all good. I think this thread has helped get some of us on track and given us a functional piece of equipment. That's the best we can hope for. McNutty I look forward to your design. Enjoy your trip and safe travels.
In reading this thread, I am curious if NuCamp addressed the issue in the '21 models or if we need to consider getting this sealing work done as we are expecting 90+ degree weather on our trips....
I wish NuCamp understood many of us are trying to make the T@G what they should be.
…AT OUR EXPENSE !
Still, the best way to get the thing to cool during the day is to stretch a tarp over the whole thing to keep the sun off of it.
I have an SE XL so the AC vents right out of the bottom and sucks air on the side vents. The fact is if you are pulling 100 degree outside air in you are behind the power curve.
HikinMike, Rogers is my dealer too
JohnnyLoco , Rogers is great. I drove 5 hours one way to do business with them.
Although it was 100 that day, I was parked under the trees, so that helped. But that leaky cabinet would be so easy for NuCamp to address.
2019 T@G Boondock Edge 5W
2017 Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro
2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 4xe
Many things would be easy to address, I’d love to run nucamp for about a month.
I tried to get service from Princess Craft in Round Rock and they refused me because “I didn’t buy it there”. If I don’t run to Rogers, I do it myself or pay other dealers in San Antonio to handle things.
Hey, around the corner across from the Burnet courthouse is trailblazer grille, not bad.
I drive up there to Roger’s from Bandera way. The amount of hours is subjective if you travel 35 at all which I refuse to do anymore.
I have a 2019 XL. I run my air-conditioner when I plan on sleeping in the trailer. I don't run it all day when I am not in there, why would you cool such a small space all day when its not in use. I open the vent, turn on the fan, crack a window to keep air moving during the day. I turn on the air 10 minutes before I retire and its cold in no time. I ran it for two weeks pre-covid at temps around 90-95, every night with zero problems. If you are spending 16 hours a day inside your trailer, you have the wrong trailer. If you have your air conditioner running 24 hours a day, you have the wrong trailer. Is the size of the air conditioner overkill, yes it is, but they don't make a smaller one. Hope everyone finds the solution that works for them.
We have a ‘21, and ran into the issue of the bulkhead getting VERY hot. When we tested each of the fans, we found that the cowbells were blowing and so was the lower exhaust. They were fighting one another! I turned the cowbell fans around and so far all has been well. I’d ensure your cowbells are sucking and that your temps get cold. Ours easily gets down below about 60F, now that I’ve flipped the fans. 👍🏻
Johnny and Chelsea
Deming, NM
RV: 2021 T@G XL Boondock
TV: 2017 GMC Canyon SLT (2.8 Duramax)
That's really interesting and sounds like a QA issue during build more than a design issue. I would think someone wasn't paying attention to how they installed those cowbell fans that day. But I am going to check!
@packetjunkie - the cowbell fans were originally built to vent to the outside. It was changed a few years ago to draw air into the TaG A/C. Always good to check.
Sharon - Westlake, Ohio | 2017 TaB CSS - Forum Administrator
to all....gather and listen to my tails of flippin HeLL! my T@G is 3 years old. a/c worked about 20 minutes. but i paid cash and its mine so i'll fix it. i went to home depot bought the 6500btu toshiba. same result accept i burn it clean up. took it back got another one. installed it...condensate was so bad i decided i needed to drill a small hole in the bottom tray because the fan was physically picking up condensate and slinging it. drilled thru the tray...punched into the coolant line lost all coolant. and i tried real hard not to do that...but it happened. back to home depot...got another one (i like those people there). then i remembered that little tiny bit in thermodynamics class....you know the part about heat naturally going up. i tore it apart after watching a guy on you tube...found the rincky dink little 12v fan that wouldnt blow out a match. yanked that out. went to the bottom to see the exhaust vent, ripped that out. installed two 120VAC fans with tons more CFM capacity (keep in mind the 120v fans will only be needed when you run the A/C which is to say ship to shore power). screwed them directly to the under carriage made gland pieces, sealed it all up with silicone. went back to home depot brought a piece of the aluminum hatch plate screwed it to the bottom and to the framework to make a splash/bash protector. then i went to seal the internal insulation box with HVAC aluminum tape. still no worky, my next step was the 12volt electric radiator fan mounted directly to the back of the air conditioner coils. this is a puller or pusher. you will clearly wire it to draw the heat off the unit. i need to also point out i needed to replace the power inverter unit. i overpowered one of the 12v circuits and smoked the board. and if you do do as i did please note "do not" tap into the ceiling fan circuit. that will for sure blow the fuse (and or burn your circuit board). end result....my a/c is STILL hit or miss. i would love to find the engineer/designer responsible and put my foot square in his butt. learn from my trials and tribulations. good luck and God bless your poor overheated souls, i live in the Sovereign state of Texas when it can be 90degrees in Nov/Dec. this means i really wont use this camper until this engineering project concludes. my current direction is if i cant get it resolved, im gonna dump the inside a/c and go with an external unit that i can duct air in like the old Little Guy teardrop that got me into the situation to begin with.
My opinion a T@G should have a portable unit that sits outside and pushes air into the trailer via hose. No reason to have all that noise and heat inside the trailer
With the thought that the unit is designed to hang out a window so the whole hot outside, cool inside thing can work (properly), someone posted their fix involving a plywood plug in one of the windows with the AC unit mounted in that. Looked terrible but bet it worked fine. Kudos to that guy for eliminating all the gyrations the rest of us are going through and getting back to basics.
2014 T@G
Okay, I'm from the future (in relation to original thread posting). My question is: How did you reach in to tape the a/c to the styro duct? Also, someone mentioned 3D printing a gasket. I'd sure be in the results of that and perhaps the file.
By pulling the AC out and sitting it on the matress. That way the hole it’s in is accessible to tape up the open areas and make it as air tight as possible.
is there any danger in using a portable a/c unit and hanging the exhaust tube out the window? i can't imagine there is... as I have used it in my bedroom at my house.