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Is it okay to leave my trailer connected to shore power?

Otis_60Otis_60 Member Posts: 37
edited October 2017 in Battery/Electrical & Solar

Is it a "good idea"/"bad idea"/"or doesn't matter" if I leave my T@G plugged in to shore (the house) power while he is resting in the garage between trips? Does having it plugged in provide a charge to the battery?

Thanks,

Thanks,
Greg
2017 Little Guy XL MAX Outback Ed.
1st TV 2015 MB GL450
2nd TV 2016 Mazda CX-5
3rd TV 1999 Ford F350 7.3l diesel

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    TomDTomD Member Posts: 358

    Yes..shore power will provide a charge to the battery. Pros and cons are across the board. Most folks I know use a battery tender during layovers and wintering. Saves wear and tear on the converter.

    Tom
    Aptos, California
    2015 LG Silver Shadow
    2012 Ford Edge Sport TV

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    Michigan_MikeMichigan_Mike Member Posts: 517
    edited October 2017

    @Otis_60 said:
    Is it a "good idea"/"bad idea"/"or doesn't matter" if I leave my T@G plugged in to shore (the house) power while he is resting in the garage between trips? Does having it plugged in provide a charge to the battery?

    Thanks,

    Although the manufacturer (WFCO) of the electric converter says it is fine to leave the electric converter plugged in full time, the factory suggests that you do it sparingly (to preserve the integrity of the electric converter) and in increments of 2-3 days. Electronic devices and computer components are like anything else, subject to wear and tear over time and with the effects of heat, do eventually wear out and can fail.

    Another consideration and potential death knoll to the trailer battery is what is called parasitic drain. This term basically results from components within your trailer draining the battery over time. Things like the cooler/frig, TV/DVD players, LED light fixtures, etc. do require voltage and even a small amount of current over a period of time will eventually kill the battery. A good example of this are second cars left behind in retirement homes by retirees who need them when they return to areas like Florida and Arizona during the winter months. When they go to start the vehicles they find the battery is dead because the computer components for things like the security system built (that blinking red light on the dashboard) into the vehicles have drained the battery completely.

    You certainly CAN leave the trailer plugged in, but as TomD noted above a better means of maintaining the battery and floating the charge is by using a battery tender. A wet cell battery isn't as efficient as an AGM type battery and needs to have the voltage kept above 12 volts DC to eliminate battery sulfation which can occur over time and because of multiple events where the battery voltage level drops below 12 volts DC. So when using a battery it's important that you monitor the voltage level and keep it properly charged and maintained.

    The electric converter does the same thing so far as maintaining the battery as it charges the battery, floats the charge (when the charge level drops it automatically brings it back up to the accepted charge rate, etc.) and provides 12 volts to the trailer's 12 volt components. The battery tenders are a lot cheaper to purchase than having to worry about and replace a damaged electric converter. They are a good investment! If you do buy one I would recommend you either use the alligator style clips to hook it up or wire the quick disconnect plug to the battery and use it.

    If your trailer comes wired with the Zamp solar port and you want to plug the Battery Tender into it you will need to flip the tender leads (cut & re-splice them in reverse) because the Zamp port is wired specifically for the Zamp solar panels and the Battery Tender brand is wired opposite of what Zamp wires their panels.

    When the trailer is plugged into shore power you do need to have the on/off battery disconnect switch in the front T@G tub turned to the "on" position for the battery to be charged by the electric converter.

    All batteries will lose their charge over time and this is a normal occurrence, even when they are disconnected from the trailer. As noted above, there are many people with differing opinions about batteries and how to maintain them properly. The old wives tale of placing them on a piece of wood during storage to eliminate discharge is just that, an old wive's tale. Batteries are built into plastic storage boxes and plastic doesn't conduct electricity very well, so this does not cause them to discharge any quicker than letting them sit on concrete.

    For me personally, if I am going to leave my batteries stored all winter in the cold confines of Michigan I leave my batteries outdoors and leave them hooked up in my pontoon boat, my lawn tractor and in my trailer. When winterizing and prepping these machines what I do is to hook up my battery charger just before winter and during the fall, charge them up fully for a good day or two, unhook them from the charger and periodically check them over the winter months. I do have a tender on my lawn tractor and also use one on my trailer battery if I am here during the winter. This has worked well for me for nearly 30 years and I really haven't replaced too many batteries over time as I keep the water level maintained (use distilled water) and I keep them as cool as possible since heat will also adversely impact batteries. If you DO buy a Battery Tender buy a good one as this is an investment for your battery, to maintain it, protect it and to allow you to have it around for a long time.

    Michigan Mike
    Linden, Mi
    2019 T@B 400

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    Otis_60Otis_60 Member Posts: 37

    thanks Tom and...holy crap Mike. First, you need to pin your whole comment to the top of this section.

    Great info. A lot I already knew, but this is for everyone here. Not just me.

    I think for my purposes, I will leave Otis unplugged in the garage and just take the battery out. I have three battery desulfators with different size capacitors in each that I have built. I'll just use that.

    Thanks,

    Thanks,
    Greg
    2017 Little Guy XL MAX Outback Ed.
    1st TV 2015 MB GL450
    2nd TV 2016 Mazda CX-5
    3rd TV 1999 Ford F350 7.3l diesel

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    Michigan_MikeMichigan_Mike Member Posts: 517

    @Otis_60 said:

    I have three battery desulfators with different size capacitors in each that I have built. I'll just use that.

    Thanks,

    Now THIS is intriguing stuff! Would be interesting in hearing more about these set-ups and some information for people who might want to take it on and build one.

    Michigan Mike
    Linden, Mi
    2019 T@B 400

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    BBsGarageBBsGarage Member Posts: 396

    Sounds a bit medieval to me.

    Bill

    2017 T@G Max XL, New Jersey.
    You can drive along 10,000 miles, and still stay where you are.

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    Otis_60Otis_60 Member Posts: 37

    @Michigan_Mike said:

    @Otis_60 said:

    I have three battery desulfators with different size capacitors in each that I have built. I'll just use that.

    Thanks,

    Now THIS is intriguing stuff! Would be interesting in hearing more about these set-ups and some information for people who might want to take it on and build one.

    Google "diy battery desulfator". These are not for the faint of heart. They CAN be very dangerous if certain precautions are not adhered to.

    Just as there are many opinions on batteries, there are many on desulfators. I'm not going to debate anyone on this. Your opinion is your opinion. And I'm happy for you.

    Thanks,

    Thanks,
    Greg
    2017 Little Guy XL MAX Outback Ed.
    1st TV 2015 MB GL450
    2nd TV 2016 Mazda CX-5
    3rd TV 1999 Ford F350 7.3l diesel

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    Michigan_MikeMichigan_Mike Member Posts: 517

    If it contains a capacitor it is something not to be taken for granted and should be treated safely and with respect. I'll have to check them out.

    Michigan Mike
    Linden, Mi
    2019 T@B 400

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