Replacing USB Ports Front/Rear

JamesDow

REPLACING USB PORTS - (Approximately 60 minutes)

Turn ON battery switch
• Before starting, make sure your USB ports are not functioning.
(Note the 12-volt cigarette power plug should function as normal, just both of the USB ports not working)
Turn OFF Battery Switch
Turn OFF/UNPLUG Shore Power

SUPPLIES:
--Replacement USB Port(s)
--2 x 2 = 4 Wire Crip Terminals (Flat Female Spade Terminals – Red
--Wire Strippers
--Crimping Tool
--Square Driver or 1/8” Flathead Screwdriver

PROCESS: - Replacing front and rear ports is essentially the same

1. Remove Cover from wall by prying with fingers.
2. Remove the four screws
3. Remove port assembly unit (White)
4. Unplug 12-volt power wires
5. Do not cut or disassemble the existing Spade terminals with the narrow gage black/red wires!
6. As close as possible to the bad USB port, cut wires (Black/Red), preserving as much wire as possible) (NOTE: don’t let the wires fall back behind the wall where they will be difficult to retrieve.)
7. Crimp connect female spade terminals (Red) onto each the cut wires. (Test connection by slightly tugging on connection point. If connection fails repeat connection process with a new uncrimped connector.)
8. Remove retaining ring behind bad port and replace with new USB port. (Note, you may need to slightly file the white plate to allow the new USB port to fit if round or if needing to be turned 90 degrees – Don’t over file.)
9. Reconnect the terminals to the ports. (Important: Smaller gage wires (black/red) to the new USB port.)
10. Turn on power and test.
11. Reassemble plates back onto the wall. (Note: you may need to open any soft rubber dust covers as you replace the white cover to the assembly.)
12. Final test 12-volt and new USB ports.

LESSONS LEARNED:
Face plate is easy to remove, as it is connected just by four plastic friction points.
Don’t remove existing spade terminal ends from the existing wire. If you have to, it is ok, but it will add a lot of unnecessary time to the process.
The larger gage wires should go to the 12-volt cigarette style adapter.
Smaller gage wire to the new USB port.
If possible, have a few extra spade terminal connectors on hand.
Using a switched USB port allows for the shut off of the small phantom voltage draw from the USB port.
May want to consider using a port with the newest quick charging technology. (Note: New technology will only work with compatible devices utilizing the proper USB cable.)
When boondocking, I typically use a portable power charger/block instead of the 12-volt trailer battery to charge my USB devices. The power block can be charged by solar during the day, conserving the 12-volt trailer battery for the night when the 12-volt battery power is most needed.

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Sharon_is_SAM

@JamesDow, I nominate you for the Electrical Tutorial of the Year award! Nicely done.

JamesDow

In an attempt to determine why the original USB ports were failing, I opened up the two I removed.
I was happy to see that no burning or shorting was apparent.
This is good in that they did not appear to pose a fire hazard.
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Michigan_Mike

Very detailed and great info! Thank you for taking the time to contribute and help out others as this is what the forum areas are all about!

Much appreciated! 👍🏻

SueBHunny

HELP! I'm working on replacing the USB outlet that always fails in the 2015 T@G with factory part. The old one came out with these red and black wires attached to nothing. What are they supposed to attach to?

Sharon_is_SAM

No wonder it wasn’t working. It should connect to provided 12 v wiring at the plug. Did you buy your TaG new? If not, the previous owner may have elected to disconnect the USB due to phantom drain. That’s what we did in our TaB. We added extra 12 v outlets and use an adapter to provide power to our phones and iPad.

SueBHunny

I bought it used and it worked when I first got it. Does that mean there are wires I need to fish out? What do they look like?

JamesDow

Just strip the wires and add to the two wire nuts shown in your photo.
The red wire on the plug will likely go to the yellow wire side.
Plug black wire to the white wire side.
Keep in mind the USB side has been prone to fail. The wires may have been cut and disconnected because of failure or as noted above to eliminate the phantom draw of power.
I would connect and test prior to assembly back to T@G wall.

SueBHunny

Thank you!!! That did the trick! I love this forum.

JamesDow

     - Replacement USB Plug Failure -  
Well after a little over three years, my front USB socket plug failed again.
The USB started to intermittently turn on and off.
Replacement was easy.
Purchased a new unit off of Amazon for $12.99 and replacement was 10 minutes, plug and play. Unplug and re-plug two connectors.
The new unit has an on/off switch turning all off, reducing any phantom battery draw. It also has two USB-A plugs and one USB-C plug.
All working normal again.
Have not had any issues with my rear wall plug, but this fix will be in line in the event of another failure.
Note: Even though my replacement socket indicates it is Quick Charge with Dual QC 3.0 (USB-A), my test measurements showed less than 10 watts being provided to my phone. I have not tested the USC-C output yet.
I have a number of other sources for quick charging, so my need for quick charge from this socket is not an issue. (Two-amp charging is fine with me.)
 

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