Converting to Lithium in a ‘22 Tag

2022TAGowner · April 13

I have a ‘22 Tag and want to convert to a lithium battery. I saw a YouTube video of a guy changing to a 12v 140ah Bluetooth battery on the same camper. I was gonna do the same thing since I can just follow his video tutorial. My question is, can we put in a larger battery?

I don’t really understand how batteries and converters work and I don’t want to spend money on it if it’s not needed and also don’t want to buy the wrong thing.

We want to run a refrigerator for four 4-5 days, charge phones, run ceiling fan. Haven’t bought the fridge yet either.

Thanks for the help!

JamesDow · April 14

I put in a 100Ah Renogy battery in my 2018 T@G and can run my Norcold refrigerator for up to 4 days without solar. I rarely use my Fantastic vent fan because it draws more power (up to 55 watts) than I want spend. I may use it for a few minutes only. As needed, I typically use a 9" usb battery powered fan on a timer for maybe 2-5 hours a night. No ding on my T@G battery.
I recently bought a BougeRV 12V 30 Quart (28L) Portable Fridge ($209) as a second fridge. It is efficient and with 100Ah battery my tests show 4-5 days usage without solar.
I would suggest putting in a lithium battery between 100-140Ah. For the refer put in what fits.
For charging phones, I typically use a USB power bank. Same as I use with my 9" fan. Battery management can be a challenge. Solar panels are easy to bring into the mix, which can greatly extend your off-grid stay. I have done 10 days in the desert, but ran out of consistant sun, so I had to call it quits. (Planned 12 days) I now have a self made power station with 100Ah lithium, Victron solar controller and 500 watt inverter.
Going cross country (San Diego-North Carolina) at the end of May. Will need shore power for dog AC when we are at White Sands and Carlsbad Caverns, and after that who knows.
I plan on bringing a 100-watt renogy solar suitcase, 50 watt Renogy portable panel and 45-watt EcoFlow solar panel.
As far as converter, mine (not lithium rated) will charge my lithium battery to around 94%. I bring a small Eco-Worthy 10Amp to get up to what I want/need.
You could put in more than 140Ah, but then fitting everything in becomes the challenge. If it fits and you want, then go for it.
Changing from lead acid to lithium made a world of difference. After my first 100Ah Renogy battery ($800), I have purchased two 100Ah LiTime 100Ah trolling batteries. The last one I bought cost me $203. Now I have 300Ah to use if I really wanted.
I recently did testing with and was able to run my AC for 4.5 hours with 100Ah. Gives me a option I previously did not have.
Continue to do your research, run searches on this forum and enjoy the camping experience.

2022TAGowner · April 15

Thank you, James, for so much information. I’ve been collecting data and trying to educate myself as best I can before making any purchases. We live in NH and trees and shade definitely impacts our solar.

Good luck on your trip! Do you have a YouTube channel or social media where we can see your setup and follow your trip?

Zombiecat · May 3

James,
When you installed the Renogy battery, did you have to change the battery terminal connection cables? I noticed that some brands (BattleBorn) have differently shaped terminals. Thank you for the info!

JamesDow · May 3

@Zombiecat;
I do not recall making any change with my T@G battery cables, but my guess is that I must have. Almost all of lithium battery terminals differ from a lead acid battery. If I recall correctly, I did not purchase any special crimping tool like (Hammer Lug Crimper Tool) as I did later with my power station project. My guess is that the wire size may have been 10AWG, which can be easily modified to the correct connectors.
I would believe in most cases the terminal connectors will require replacement.

The one thing I remember is changing the polarity of the SAE solar panel plug. A very simple task as the install went. Wire length was tight but just was able to make the distance.

My biggest change was going from a group 24 battery size case to a group 31 size case ($25). I had to make some modifications (remove handles) to the case to make it fit in my 2018 tongue box. I did have to add a base to support the new battery, which I made/cut from an old cutting board. Something that would not rust or decay. I bolted the battery case through the bottom and through my modified cutting board through the bottom mesh of the T@G. Extra space in the group 31 box was filled with some foam padding that I had around. The padding should minimize shock to the battery with bumps as well as providing some insulation from cold/heat. For added security I wrapped a small diameter cable and lock around the entire box. I have had no need to open anything back up since my install, although it would be simple.

As far as charging, I utilize the SAE solar plug. It is a direct connection to the battery and makes no difference if the 12-volt power switch to the T@G is on or off. I will also charge the battery up by plugging into shore power, which utilizes my WFCO (non-lithium rated) T@G converter. My experience has shown that on shore power, the battery will charge to mid 83% when all is off. If I have my Norcold NRF-30 refrigerator turned on, I will get a charge to around 94+%. Adding a load makes the converter charge in the Boost or Bulk mode (14.4 Volts) for a longer period (4 hours) at a time.
When I want a full charge, or when on the road with shore power I utilize an Eco-Worthy 10 Amp charger or a Schumacher 6 Amp charger. Both plug right into the SAE plug. I could use a higher current charger, but I find I do not have the need.

I hope this information helps.
I am sure anyone who makes the modest effort will find it well worth it.

2022TAGowner · May 4

James,

Can you explain why you changed the polarity of the SAE solar panel plug?

I assume this is the plug on the outside of the silver box where the battery & propane tank is housed. I thought this was installed to easily attach a solar suitcase to charge the battery. If that's the case, then wouldn't the polarity already be correct?

ras · May 5

He reversed it as I did on mine because the polarity of the cable from his Renogy solar panel was opposite the polarity of that plug. There were two choices: purchase an adapter that would reverse the connections before plugging them into the receptacle on the side of the battery box or just reverse them at the battery. One was cheaper and easier than the other. I hope you have a basic understanding of DC electricity and a voltmeter before you start down the solar path. Checking for correct polarity is always going to be an issue if you're dealing with multiple manufacturers.

JamesDow · May 5

A SAE plug is polarity neutral. For the T@G they refered to it as a "Zamp" specific connector. (Zamp is a brand name).
Nucamp may have installed per Zamp specifications.
Why it was not a standard install is not too important. One can also get a SAE polarity adapter. You will likely need one anyways.
Posted below is my current T@G SAE connector. As you will note the positive is female and best protected from accidential sort circuit. (This plug is directly wired to the T@G battery) All of the solar equipment that I have purchased (5 solar panels, 2 battery chargers require no polarity adapter since I reversed what T@G shipped with.

Bottom line, I have no idea how the connector was installed on your T@G.
Best know what it is by checking and I would suggest marking it so mistakes can be minimized.

JamesDow · May 18

Quick update concerning changing the battery terminal connection cables from original battery to Lithium Battery.
I did not need to change terminal connections. My original and replacement lead acid batteries had both the standard common SAE terminal posts as well as 3/8" threaded steel terminals.
My T@G connects to the threaded terminals, before and after changeover to a lithium battery.

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