The proper way to level a T@G?

johnny_swindle · March 2018

Last time I went camping the pad that I was on was a little out of level side to side. How does everyone else deal with this? What is the appropriate way to level the T@G without damaging it.

Thanks...

Johnny

TomD · March 2018

Level from front to rear by disconnecting the hitch from the tow vehicle, and adjusting the jack up or down until you are level. Block or chock the wheels to keep the trailer from rolling. Use the stabilizing jacks at the two rear corners to eliminate the natural spring action of the axles and correct the side to side tilt.The stabilizing jacks are located at the rear corners of the trailer. Use the manual handle to hand crank the jacks into position. The owners manual says do not use the stabilizers to level the RV but for minor tilt correction it should not break the mechanism.

AnacortesArmyGuy · March 2018

For side to side leveling issues I use some stackable leveling pads found at a variety of stores or on the Internet. Depending how much off-level the parking pad is will determine how many of the pads you will need. They generally come with instructions on how to stack them so it’s easy to drive up on them, and generally it’s will be only one wheel that will need them. Once up on them, chock the other wheel, disconnect from the tow vehicle (I also chock the front jack wheel with a chock designed for that purpose), then drop the rear stabilizing jacks.

johnny_swindle · March 2018

Thanks for the info TomD and AnacortesArmyGuy.

I know that the recommended method for changing a tire is to lower the trailer jack, extend the stabilizing jack on the side with the flat and then raise the trailer jack.

Does anyone see any issue with using the same method for achieving level and then sliding leveling pads, etc under the wheel, then raising the stabilizing jack to take the weight off it, then extend both of the stabilizers?

Johny

nbrandt · March 2018

Consider the logic here - you will want to level from side to side first and then level from front to back. If you do it the other way, you will have to do it twice. Those thin plastic pads can really help when the "pad" is just a little off. I carry a small bubble level with me. You can also buy the bead levelers at RV stores and attach them to your trailer (make sure you do so completely level to begin with...) I find when I level the trailer that my wife complains less about me rolling on too close to her : )

NathanB

Michigan_Mike · March 2018

You need to buy some small domino style leveling pads. Four should be plenty. Leave your trailer hooked to the tow vehicle, place a small level on the frame (side to side measurement) or on the galley countertop and use the leveling pads on the side that needs to be lifted. Use wheel chocks under both wheels, unhook from the tow vehicle and use the trailer tongue jack to level it from front to back. You can then put your stabilizers down and tweak the trailer a bit to get a perfect leveling position.

You could in theory do the flat tire lifting procedure but it isn't necessary and actually makes for more work. Having on hand a small 8-10" level and some domino style leveling pads will make your life a lot easier and once you get the hang of it you will be a pro at leveling your trailer in all situations. But always use wheel chocks in front of and behind the wheels as these trailers are light and will take off on an incline if they are not locked into position. This is also why you want to keep the trailer hooked up when leveling from side to side, etc. I knew a young lady who nearly lost a teardrop as it took off and almost went over a cliff. Lucky for her a tree stump stopped it just before it went over the side of a mountain. No joke either!

johnny_swindle · March 2018

Thanks everyone for your input.

SueBHunny · March 2018

This is one of the best purchases I have ever made: https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520440299&sr=8-1&keywords=bal+leveler

BobR · March 2018

Level side to side first before disconnecting. The level front to rear with tongue jack. After leveling drop your stabilizers. I bought one of these. The easiest to use leveling block I have ever used.
https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520463017&sr=1-4&keywords=rv+levelers+and+chocks

TennTim · March 2018

BAL leveler here as well. I got tired of the back and forth, plus I often want to position the trailer different than the car can push it.

Except I’ll usually get some blocks under the tires and lower the leveler just enough to get the weight off of it and on to the blocks. I may be imagining it but after a few trips I was afraid the BAL leveler was twisting the tire inward (toe? camber?) as I thought the tire was wearing on the outside edge. In retrospect, the car jack probably would have worked just fine.

LuckyJ · March 2018

All of the above are good tips.

But you should get good at it pretty quickly. Sometime just the first look at your level, will give you a good idea of what you need and under witch wheel you need it.

An other thing, is that the water tank work a better if the trailer is leaning toward the rear a bit, and it does not affect sleeping confort at all.

An othe thing if you have a tendancy to stay for only one night, is that you can leave the TD hooked up to the TV and use some of the stackable block under the rear TV wheels to lift the front of the trailer.

And last, if you are not sure about a slopping ground, before un hooking the trailer, make sure the safety chains are still hook up.

Michigan_Mike · March 2018

I've left the trailer hooked to my vehicle too and used the tongue jack to level things up. That way if you are travelinvgbd following morning it eliminates having to rebook the trailer and does save time.

Coulter · February 2020

BobR - I'm a Newbie just starting to buy my camper gear. I really like the looks of the Anderson Leveler. Once you have the low side leveled with this do you chock the other wheel or do anything with the wheel on the jack? Is this leveler and dropping the stabilizers all you use?
Looking forward to spring!
Thanks!

ontheroad · February 2020

I agree with @SueBHunny ...best purchase we made was the BAL Leveller...a little heavy but well worth it... especially when you're solo...

Sharon_is_SAM · February 2020

@Counter, we use the Anderson with our Tab. It comes with the leveler and a matching chock that you can use as an additional support. After leveling side to side with the Anderson, with both wheels chocked, lower the jack wheel, chock and unhitch. Then level front to back with the jack. Then lower the stabilizers. Be aware that when you hitch back up to leave the site, sometimes the coupler will not lock over the ball. So, we just gently pull forward off the Anderson, then lock the coupler over the ball once we are off the Anderson.

WilliamA · February 2020

I pick a spot where the wheels are (mostly...kinda) level, then level front to rear with the tongue jack. Takes about 30 seconds if I'm holding a coffee cup in one hand. (Always!) That way, without the rear levelers down during earthquakes and asteroid strikes I'm nice and comfy and don't spill my drink. You'd need to add a trunkful of anvils to the kitchen of a T@G in order to get the torsion springs off their upper limit stops anyway. I took my levelers off and pitched them. Waste of weight hauling them around and I've not seen any difference with or without them. When I go camping, I don't want to build a house. I already brought one. If I need to change a tire, I use the jack that came in my Jeep.

Most problems that need complex (heavy and/or cumbersome) solutions are solved before seeing if the problem actually existed in the first place. A T@B (large/top-heavy/wind-catcher) probably needs jacks. A T@G does not...

WilliamA

JamesDow · February 2020

I am with William, Bottom line, level it to your preference. The Norcold refer has a great tolerence, so that is really not an issue. If you like your head up a little as you sleep, go for it. Remember cooking on stove. Flat makes things nicer. A cheap level is fine but really not needed in my opinion. If disconnected from the tow vehicle, the trailer can normally be easily adjusted (except maybe on sand). Enjoy the camping and trailer and relax.

HikinMike · February 2020

I have one CamCo leveler. I've used it once. Most of the campsites I have been on have been pretty level from side to side. Heck, last time I went out, the campsite was so level, I didnt even unhook from my TV (I did unplug, however) I also have a couple of very cheap, plastic, stick on bubble levels to help me gauge front to back and side to side.

WilliamA · February 2020

I also have bubble levels stuck to the toolbox where I can see them from my landing leg crank.

WilliamA

mgreen2 · February 2020

The T@G setup is very simple. Only issue with leveling is to make sure the LP stove is level when cooking and the AC drains properly when you are using it. It’s easy to crank the tongue jack a couple turns depending on what you need. I’ve used a leveling Block maybe twice in 2 1/2 years to get side to side correct.

DaveB · February 2020

For leveling I use a series of leftover fence boards (1x6) in various lengths from 30" down to 12" they have 5" wide anti-slip tape on one side (freebie from work) and I can stack them on whatever side needs to be raised. Another bonus was they work great when I got the TV stuck twice, once in mud and the other time in sand. Try doing that with those silly plastic lego blocks. I try to keep the front just a smidge to the high side of the bubble and the same for the passenger side (helps get the most water out of the tank). For levelling I just use an 8" magnetic level from home placed on the fame, do the side to side first, then front to back.

TomD · February 2020

I use an app on my IPhone for leveling. Works great and gives you many different level options.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/bubble-level-for-iphone/id465613917

GigHarborTom · February 2020

We use a canvas shopping bag with 6 or 8, 3/4 inch by whatever ply. Put under the leveling jacks or downriggers, and tire if necessary. Gave the Legos away years ago.
On two or three day runs between points of interest, we have been known to stay at Cabellas, Bass Pro Shop and Wally's place. Always ask permission. Don't unhook, but may level off with a ply board. Also always use protection of the parking lots with something under downriggers. Some folks have been known to damage black top and leave their bloody trash behind. We save money on the overnight RV lot, go in the store and blow it on treasures.

WilliamA · February 2020

https://teardrop-trailers.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/7092#Comment_7092

I really like the "blow it on treasures" part! I'll have to check it out.😎

WilliamA

tagurit · February 2020

I have no problems with the "Legos", I try to find a fairly flat place to start and I like that they came in that nylon bag that fits neatly on top of the battery in our aftermarket tongue box. As far as the actual process, side to side, front to back, and done whenever my wife says it's okay. "Level? Level? She don't need no stinking level!"

HikinMike · February 2020

As you can see, johnny_swindle, there is no proper way, rather, the way that works best for you. Now do your level best to get out there and enjoy your T@G!

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The proper way to level a T@G?

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