2021 Crane Heater Thermostat Plug Location

LovelandPaul

Just pick up our new 2021 TAG Boondock XL this weekend. The dealer walk-through was rather brief, so I have been spending some time going through the systems and verifying that all work as expected. Last evening I was testing out the Nashone wireless remote thermostat for the Crane heater. After warming up the inside, I set the thermostat to a temp below the interior temp showing on the thermostat. I expected thermostat to shut off, but it kept cranking away. So, my guess is that it is not properly paired with the Nashone receiver plug that the heater is plugged into. However, I can't find the outlet where heater is plugged in (guessing it is behind the cabinets).

Does anyone know where the heater is plugged in and how to access it?

Cheers!

Paul

Sharon_is_SAM

See if this helps. https://teardrop-trailers.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/8825#Comment_8825

Sharon_is_SAM

You can also email Customerservice@nucamprv.com

WilliamA

The heater issue for small trailers has been beaten many times here and elsewhere and I am sure it's not going away any time soon. I've done the math many times and it works out to around 500-600 watts of heat in a T@G XL to be comfy when temps are at or below freezing outside. Having installed different heat sources in 2 of my teardrops and having 4 years of working experience about their performance, I feel that I can offer a few things with some degree of confidence. (See the disclaimer at the end)

First, having a heater of some kind is a game changer. For those who don't winter camp, having the ability to dry out on cold, wet outings is a big deal. Second, putting in a heat source is actually pretty straightforward. Forget 12 volt electric heat... that's not a safe or reliable option. The short version of 12 volt heat is that it takes 60 amps at 12 volts to equal the same heat you can get from 6 amps at 110 volts. 60 amps of D.C. current is dangerous and nearly impossible to do without an engine-driven generator. It's just not a viable option.

So assuming you want a bit of part-time heat without installing either a diesel or propane furnace, the only option is 110V electric. Going with 110V electric heat is inexpensive, relatively easy and near bulletproof so far as reliability goes. I have had my 110V furnace in my trailer for 3 years and, other than taking it apart once to clean out the dust (there wasn't much. I was just curious), have never touched it. In fact, as I write this up here in northern Wi, my furnace is probably running right now, keeping the inside of my trailer at 45-50 degrees. In the winter, I just leave my trailer plugged in and the thermostat set to its lowest setting and forget it.

Types of 110 Volt electric heat:

There are many. Too many to list here, but they generally fall into 2 categories; Radiant and Forced Air. A radiant heater is just a heating element stuffed into an enclosure. Think, "Baseboard heater". The element heats up, warm air rises and circulates the air by convection. They have no moving parts.

A forced air electric heater is just a radiant heater element with the addition of a small fan that blows air across the element. So, 1 moving part. Both must have a control device, usually a thermostat. For electric heaters, the simplest control is what's called a "line voltage" thermostat. This is simply a thermostat that acts as a switch, shutting off the voltage to the heating element once a set temperature is reached. In the case of a radiant heat source, (baseboard, ceramic etc) once the temp is reached, it just shuts off power to the element. For a forced-air unit, it (generally) shuts off power to both the heating element and the fan.

The "Brains":

For electric, 110V heat, there are a couple of ways to do it. Either is pretty simple and inexpensive.

Let's say that you bought a cheesy, $30 dollar space heater. The kind that plugs into the wall and looks like a small freestanding fan but also has a heating element in it. Some have a thermostat, some don't. Most all of them have a high-limit device built in so if they get too hot, they shut off. To install one in a trailer with a thermostat, you need a 110V "line voltage thermostat", a surface-mount box and some wiring. You also need an ordinary household outlet. You wire the outlet so the power goes through the line voltage thermostat. Plug your cheapo heater into that outlet, set the thermostat and enjoy the heat. Anything plugged into that outlet will turn on and off based upon the temperature in the trailer.

Here's what mine looks like:

The thermometer stuck to the wall above the thermostat isn't a component of the system. It's just stuck there with velcro. You'll notice that the installation is "surface mount". No need to bury it in the wall. You want a thermostat mounted away from the heat source about mid-level in the space. You can also mount the outlet in like fashion. Just have it where you plan to have the heater so you don't have cords all over the place.

Disclaimer: Electricity is dangerous. You could die. (I know...you didn't know that...) On the bright side, any electrician that can fog a mirror could do the job for you in an hour or so. Less if you are handy enough to install the surface mount boxes and wire chase yourself.

As I mentioned, there are basically 2 ways to heat your trailer with electricity. The first, using a cheesy space heater, I covered here. The second, installing a small electric furnace, is not much harder and need but a bit more thought and putzing. The electric furnace I have in my trailer cost me a hundred bucks. Add in the bits and hardware and it was still less than two hundred bucks. The cost/benefits are obvious. I have been perfectly comfy camping in 10 degree weather.

A propane furnace like a Propex will cost you $1200 or more. A diesel heater (I have one) will cost $500 plus a month to properly install and get sorted out. Compared to the alternatives, electric heat is a no-brainer.

The dumbest invention for entertainment yet achieved is camping. To that end, the second dumbest is the tent. Carried out to the next level of dumb and you have a $15-$20000 dollar camper.....with no heat......

Dumb.

Just dumb....

I'll probably take a lot of grief over this.

I'm okay with that.

It always surprises me how hard it is sometimes

to see the elephant......

WilliamA

TagIamit

Wow. This sounds like the answer to my prayers. I wish you lived in Florida so you can install this in my 2017 Tag. I have never used the air conditioner in my summer travels out West, but would have loved a heater.

AustinHealey

Bought the little Crane 800/1200 watt heater and it heats the TAG well. Sits perfect on the shelf at the head of the bed. Only problem is I like to boondock with my Boondock. I have a Mr heater I have been using this winter with the windows cracked . Would a small Honda generator work for running the little Crane heater? I really like Tonopah’s propex installation - but what if instead of $2800 installed for a propex you spent $1000 on the honda generator to run you electric heater? It would also run the AC in the summer.

zgfiredude

My guess is yes on the generator...so some careful math on the power needs of the heater, the AC unit, and the microwave if you have one/use one......my thinking is that true generator needs are less than one might initially assume!

paulmz

@LovelandPaul said:
...So, my guess is that it is not properly paired with the Nashone receiver plug that the heater is plugged into. However, I can't find the outlet where heater is plugged in (guessing it is behind the cabinets).

Does anyone know where the heater is plugged in and how to access it?

I'm having this exact same issue with our new 2021 5W. I'm pretty close to dismantling the cabinets just to get at the thermostat receiver plug-in unit. Why it was built to be inaccessible - I have no idea. If I find out how to fix this before anyone else actually posts a helpful reply, I'll post it right here.

zgfiredude

I had the same issue......the outlet IS behind the back of the cabinet and off to the left/outside edge...why I can't tell you. It seems that the initial pairing of the remote is tough without removing the back of the cabinet wood. At least there are accessible fasteners. Try just taking one off and re-pairing. It "should" work. You could also try to pair before removing the backing by getting the remote over to the left side and about the middle vertically.....maybe that's close enough!

LovelandPaul

Thanks zgfiredude - Great info!

jahorsle

https://teardrop-trailers.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/10464#Comment_10464

We were also finding that our remote would “un-sync” if we were off shore power for very long. The fix seems to be that you always place the remote near the heater and fire it up once you are connected to shore power. We spent a cold night this weekend because it wasn’t synced. Once we turned the breaker on our shore power off and then on, then turned on the heater and adjusted the temp, it has worked like a champ. We turn it off when we are up in the morning, and it has worked again every evening. Hope this is helpful! It’s a dumb “wireless” system, but it works once you know the little tricks. I made a post about our fix here:

https://teardrop-trailers.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/1327/syncing-crane-wall-thermostat#latest

Woodynh

We are having the same issues. You can pair it after about 30 minutes of power off at the breaker power on multiple times and sometimes removing the batteries from the remote. It doesn’t seem to be consistent on how to get it paired. I am ok with that my issue is once paired on a cold night it seems to become unpaired during the night and we have no heat. I emailed Nu camp weeks ago and got zero reply back from them. So I am guessing this is an issue they want to ignore as everyone is having it. Looking at some alternative controls.

Sharon_is_SAM

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