Best Of
Re: How cold do you go ?
@ericmooreco said:
year around !!
picture from 2016 thanksgiving trip.
made same trip this year, however no snow, but we got down to 20 overnight.
We attached the 5x7 tent to the door, then run a heater in the tent, and separate heater inside the camper.
Its very cozy inside
Lol. I need to show this to my GF. She worried that our new T@G will rust if winterized in my driveway at the cabin on a layer or hard pack clean snow, like 400 yards from the nearest road salt. I try to convince her that composite material does not rust and that we will remove the snow at every major snow storm. And I will have to move it to remove the plow the snow the way I like it. Lol
Now, down to the real question. What kind of heater do you have. Gaz or elecrtic, and if electric, do you find shore power, or use a geny?
Re: Step outside the doors
Emailed NuCamp and here is the response:
Good Morning Tom,
$34.85 each for the step. There is a drivers and passenger side step. So if you don’t want both please clarify which side when you order. To order please call 330.852.4811 ext 304 or press 2 for parts.
Re: Getting all the water out of the water tank
It works well. I just drained and treated my tank yesterday and no problems. I treat my tank a couple of times a year. Just remember when draining to crank the tongue jack high to get the water to the back.
For me, if I get a slight odor of bleach it's not a big deal. I probably overtreat my water system but havent had problems either. My pet peave isn't bleach smell but rather the taste of RV antifreeze. I'm not going to use that again if I can avoid it. Takes a few fill drain cycles to get rid of that.
WilliamA
Re: Cabinet and galley mods
This was my simple on the fly solution for the burners.
Re: Getting all the water out of the water tank
My tip for getting all the water out of the tank is to open the drain prior to heading home. All the up and down hills has always left the tank totally empty.
Doesn't solve the problem of having a couple of gallons on unused water - but at least old water isn't sitting in the tank for prolonged periods
Re: Tail lights on when disconnected from TV
@HellFish that sounds exactly like what was happening! It was only a few LEDs not the whole bar, and I do recall having to dump out some water from our 7 pin connector!
She's Been Named!
We finally moved ahead with officially naming our 2017 T@G. Introducing the newly monikered "T@STE of SUMMER"
Full custom hatch wrap by Felty Custom Graphics.
Re: TV and Speakers
papa,
This is what I have done for a 2017 T@G but cannot imagine they have changed them much.
You need to add a left right audio cable from the audio out on the left side of the TV as your looking at the front to the audio in on the left side of the radio as your looking at the front. This is the tried and true RCA connector type cable. Select rear auxiliary on the radio when your playing your iPad. I have also found the TV should be on before the Radio or no audio.
If you want to keep the DVD functionality add a 2x1/1x2 hdmi switch then you can switch between your iPad and your DVD player. Just keep in mind you will need to select Rear Auxiliary for standard over the air TV.
Let us know how you make out with this.
New 2017 T@G Immediate Mods
Just got home for N.C. dealer with my leftover, new 2017 T@G and went to work doing first mods to camper. Started with realigning propane/battery box on tongue. Noticed it askew and not centered. It was held on by 4 not so easily reached bolts through its frame to tongue screen. Had to remove battery and propane tank. While there, drilled holes in each lowest depression on battery box so water would drain out if trapped inside battery box. Once reattached and squared to trailer, I realized dealer had failed to connect solar lines if I choose to run solar. So those where connected as I reattached trailer battery leads. Next to the inside for the hinges on the floor panels. Got 3" hinge pair and they did the job. Next to the behind the T.V. cabinet mod. Removed T.V. from mount (push down on top bar); removed 4 screws for panel and wiggled panel out. Removed T.V. mount on panel to replace with different, simple tilt mount (up and down) replacement for the T.V. mount. Had some leftover nice cabinet hinges and installed pair on panel and then cabinet with panel squared on outside of cabinet. Put magnet closer catch but realized the panel door needed something more, with the weight of T.V., etc., so used one side of a window lock (color matched to hinges) for home windows to assist magnetic catch to keep panel door closed in transit. Then installed shelf at tilted angle (low in front, higher in back on supports) on the now inside opened cabinet to allow for air circulation on top of air conditioner while rearranging T.V. feeds to side. I left about and inch on each side of shelf as it tilts up from front (lowest) to rear (highest) on these inside cabinet supports (gives air conditioner some breathing room) and reused four panel screws that I had removed, to attach shelf (which I had to split down the middle to get into cabinet). Added a bit of touchup stain on outside edges and all is good to go. Finally, underneath, on sink drain under trailer I attached a short run of hose to rear of trailer using existing drain cap at newly attached hose end. I attached 1/2" clamps along bottom trim rail run, partly reusing screws on bottom trim on one side to attach the plastic conduit clamps on hose and screwed to floor panel on the other (don't forget to seal with silicon). Hose runs inside rear bottom, side trim and just in front of stabilizer to help protect it from a snag (in cold weather, detach hose drain extension from floor drain to drain hose as it has a trap curve that will hold water). This will allow me to not crawl under trailer at campsite to attach a drain hose or place a bucket under the trailer and forget! I know some have run from inside to side of trailer drilling into rear side panel. This may happen in the future, but just could not bring myself to drill a hole in my new fiberglass panel and risk a leak! Well that is all for now. Will see what the future holds for the next round of mods. Happy trailering.
Re: 2018 T@g Outback brakes
Just to let folks know that I asked my tire dealer know about the spacers as a fix for the squealing and rubbing he said they will not work on any vehicles that have spaces due to it being a safety issue. He said the tires were too big for the trailer, and the next size down wouldn't take away from the look of the trailer, but would solve the issue I've included a picture of the scraping on the side of the trailer from the tire. I now have it at the and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes so now they are keeping it another few days for another expert to look at it. I told them to contact Nucamp and other people have the same issue. I'll keep you posted.