Just got home for N.C. dealer with my leftover, new 2017 T@G and went to work doing first mods to camper. Started with realigning propane/battery box on tongue. Noticed it askew and not centered. It was held on by 4 not so easily reached bolts through its frame to tongue screen. Had to remove battery and propane tank. While there, drilled holes in each lowest depression on battery box so water would drain out if trapped inside battery box. Once reattached and squared to trailer, I realized dealer had failed to connect solar lines if I choose to run solar. So those where connected as I reattached trailer battery leads. Next to the inside for the hinges on the floor panels. Got 3" hinge pair and they did the job. Next to the behind the T.V. cabinet mod. Removed T.V. from mount (push down on top bar); removed 4 screws for panel and wiggled panel out. Removed T.V. mount on panel to replace with different, simple tilt mount (up and down) replacement for the T.V. mount. Had some leftover nice cabinet hinges and installed pair on panel and then cabinet with panel squared on outside of cabinet. Put magnet closer catch but realized the panel door needed something more, with the weight of T.V., etc., so used one side of a window lock (color matched to hinges) for home windows to assist magnetic catch to keep panel door closed in transit. Then installed shelf at tilted angle (low in front, higher in back on supports) on the now inside opened cabinet to allow for air circulation on top of air conditioner while rearranging T.V. feeds to side. I left about and inch on each side of shelf as it tilts up from front (lowest) to rear (highest) on these inside cabinet supports (gives air conditioner some breathing room) and reused four panel screws that I had removed, to attach shelf (which I had to split down the middle to get into cabinet). Added a bit of touchup stain on outside edges and all is good to go. Finally, underneath, on sink drain under trailer I attached a short run of hose to rear of trailer using existing drain cap at newly attached hose end. I attached 1/2" clamps along bottom trim rail run, partly reusing screws on bottom trim on one side to attach the plastic conduit clamps on hose and screwed to floor panel on the other (don't forget to seal with silicon). Hose runs inside rear bottom, side trim and just in front of stabilizer to help protect it from a snag (in cold weather, detach hose drain extension from floor drain to drain hose as it has a trap curve that will hold water). This will allow me to not crawl under trailer at campsite to attach a drain hose or place a bucket under the trailer and forget! I know some have run from inside to side of trailer drilling into rear side panel. This may happen in the future, but just could not bring myself to drill a hole in my new fiberglass panel and risk a leak! Well that is all for now. Will see what the future holds for the next round of mods. Happy trailering.
Our first camping trip in Port Saint Joe state park Florida. Very nice place with some nice facilities and breeze.
I know that your wanting near the beach but Ocala National Forest has some great camping areas. Lots of springs and shade. Salt Springs is a favorite of ours.
Disclaimer: This is my opinion.....
I have never really given it much thought. I've always just used the standard hardware. After years of buying different drop/raise receiver inserts, I have now a bagful of the stock pins and clips. I've pulled many different kinds of trailers from small utility to 28' box trailers with 2 cars in them with no problems. I don't think there is as much pressure on the pin as most folks think. A 5/8" pin in good condition will hold many thousands of lbs of weight and consider, a huge portion of a trailers weight is transferred to the hitch through the friction of the receiver and insert. It's probably on the order of 50-75% of the weight of the trailer that is actually pulled through friction rather than the weight of the trailer acting directly on the pin. Additionally, the full weight of the trailer, as if it were actually being lifted by the pin, is almost never the case. Specifically, the actual pull on the pin is never more than the ability of the tow vehicle to apply torque. Rarely on the order of more than 400 foot pounds or so. I'd have to do some math, but I doubt you could ever actually break one through normal use. I have seen them get worn nearly through by years of use, but have never seen a broken one. So in this case, use whatever pin that came with your hitch.
I've considered occasionally purchasing a locking pin, but with all the road chum and salt and sand down there, I hesitate to lock anything that will take a torch to get off in a pinch. I'll just stick to my stocker...
WilliamA
The TV and entertainment center both have inline blade type fuses, as does solar panels if you have them.
Look in the breaker box inside at the foot of the bed for sizes. They are color coded
Yep, they are standard blade type. What is nice, is when a fuse is blown and power is on, you will have a red light beside it.
But I do not know about the one near the battery. Might check the fridge. Not sure if there is one in it. Maybe it is not there anymore, since the 12v cig plug is cut from the wire.
@mikewingo1955 said:
We'll have to store it outside. Does anyone have recommendations for a good cover for the Boondock?Thanks
Arizona sky works great in winter!
seriously though, I have an old "EZ up canvas that works great. It has tie down holes as well.
WilliamA
Love that place. Need to go back now that we have something more comfortable.
Looks good @sheaoliver welcome to Taglandia.
@mikewingo1955 said:
I just bought a 2018 T@G. Where is this solar connector that you refer to?
Sorry Mike, based on the following youtube video (and a couple other pics I'd seen on line), I thought it came with one. Just instant messaged with NuCamp and they said 2018 And newer does not come with the solar recepticle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXgIWv9Nblk
Great... one more thing to do......