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I am using the Frost King HD5 Heat Deflector purchased on Amazon for $3.75, works good. A little hot glue and done.

We have not yet camped with air conditioning in the 2017 T@G we bought last fall. Our July North Carolina trip to escape the coastal heat and humidity had to be cancelled. So, to satisfy my curiosity and alleviate my frustration about not being in the mountains, I've been tinkering with the air conditioner and running it under various control conditions. The objective is to understand they system better and figure out how to get the best performance from it. I'll offer a few observations from what I've seen.

Afternoon conditions here on the Mississippi Coast during the past two week have typically been 91 - 92 F and 6-65% RH. It's been dry here. The T&G is parked beneath a high, open carport and it's shaded from direct solar gain. For each operating point, I allowed the interior temperature and humidity to stabilize, usually requiring an hour between changes. In some cases, multiple runs were made with the same settings. No lights or electronics were on inside and there were no occupants. I'm not aware that the compressor ever cycled off during any of the runs; it was always running when I checked. Condensate was collected in a basin below the camper, but not measured.

• I began with one window open about one inch, the overhead fan cover opened about 3/4", and the 12V air conditioner condenser vent fans on. I set the air conditioner to the high cool mode. Interior temperature pulled down to the mid-70s with humidity in the mid-80s. Cooler, but not very comfortable. Disappointing. A slight improvement was obtained by removing the rolled up socks I put in the cowbells to keep insects and dust out during storage. (Checklist updated.)

• Several progressive reductions in window and fan vent openings substantially improved interior temperature and humidity. Condensate production declined noticeably, since less humid outdoor air was being cooled.

• The best performance was achieved with the windows and fan vent completely closed. The air conditioner consistently cooled the interior to 25 to 26 degrees below the outdoor ambient, stabilizing at 66 - 68 F and 55-65% RH at about 92 F and 65% outside. Very nice. (Air at 65F/65%RH contains about 13% as much moisture per pound as air at 92F/65% RH.)

• Taping the two vents on the sides of the air conditioner cabinet to completely block airflow reduced the interior temperature by about two degrees and reduced humidity by a couple of percent RH. Less cool air was being drawn out of the interior and being replaced by leakage with hot, humid outdoor air.

• Switching the 12V condenser vent fans off caused the interior temperature to climb a degree or two with no noticeable effect on humidity. The comparatively more powerful air conditioner condenser fan is responsible for most of the flow through the air conditioner condenser chamber.

• After the interior was initially cooled, switching from high cooling to low cooling made only a small difference in the interior conditions. Temperature increased a degree or two, while humidity declined by a percent or two.

Disclaimer: I realize that this is not a scientifically rigorous evaluation - varying outdoor conditions, basic instruments, ... Having a significant direct solar load might change things. Also, I suspect that there are great differences between T&Gs in how well the air conditioner cabinet is sealed and that might affect things strongly. Two adult humans releasing water by respiration into the interior may have a significant effect on interior humidity.

I'm curious about what problems and solutions others have found with their systems. I know some folks have had problems with high humidity while running the air conditioner. Does that happen only when your in the camper? With windows closed or cracked open? Has anyone else tried taping the air vents to the air conditioner cabinet? How has the system behaved during prolonged foggy or rainy weather?